We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:37 pm
Hi Mark hope your good.
Have been watching a bunch of videos and looking up info on the forums, but wanted to get your opinion please.
Have the Edge Pro Shapton Glass Set and the Kohetsu AS 210 Gryuto / The Bone Chopper and a 130mm Moritaka Petty, as well at home I have a Victorinox 8" Chef and a 170?mm Nakiri and Santoku as well as a cheaper light weight cleaver.
Looking at what angles you would recommend?
Wondering any tips for the cleavers? Have heard of the mouse pad method, but would like to use the Edge Pro.
With the Nakiri and the Santoku I was having them sharpened at Knifewear in Calgary, but have not been impressed with the last couple times, hence why want to start at home. The edge has not lasted long with them, they are VG10 steel, so should be semi decent but would love tips for turning them into the cutting machines they used to be.
PS - I wish shipping to Canada was easier, way to many beautiful knives on your site have been looking at.
Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:43 pm
The wise ass answer to your question is you want to sharpen them at the steepest angle the knife will hold for an acceptable amount of time. So, a cleaver that has soft steel and you use it to chop bbq that may contain a some bones here and there should be sharpened with a wider angle than your sujihiki made with aogami super steel that you want to slice paper thin slices of fish. In these cases I would try 20 degrees on each side for the cleaver and 10 on each side for the suji. Then, I would pay attention to how they perform as I use them and make adjustments from there. I typically don't sharpen steeper than 10 and wider than 20 on anything.
The best thing about the edge pro is you can set the machine and test the angle and then go back and adjust. Free hand sharpening is almost impossible to do this since you're always guessing as to the angle used.
Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:14 pm
Hello fellow Canadian,
I micro-bevel all my knives, find the original angle with your sharpie then go up 1 to 2 degrees for your light passes. If you use a steel after every use it will save your stones and blade. A good leather strop is also good to use. There is no set angle for any knife, reason being you can have identical knives in every way, but the heat treat and primary grind may be slightly different. This will effect the secondary bevel angles sustainability greatly. This is why I micro-bevel all my knives to get the thinness that cuts well, but a stronger cutting edge behind the apex. Going 10 -20 degrees is good advice...
Shipping is easy and cheap from Mark, just ask for him when you are ready to checkout.
Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:54 pm
I'll keep it simple(istic). Set the EP to 15deg for your gyuto and petty and 18 for the others. I can't comment on the big cleavers as I've never used one, but 18-20 seems reasonable. Just as important is taking your time, raise a burr on the low grit stone and did I mention take your time?
Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:10 am
Yes a common mistake most sharpeners make is they use their low grit stone too little and jump up to the higher grit stones before the knife edge is properly ground. Always make sure you have a well defined burr before you move up.
Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:18 am
Snipes offers perfect advice. No need to mess with micro or secondary bevels on a Japanese knife IMO.
On the remaining knives (which might need thinning anyway) you could establish a 15 degree primary bevel and then put an 18-20 degree secondary bevel on top of that. Depends upon your patience level. Maybe try it first on which knife is in worst shape. But the straight 18 degree bevel would be fine.
Tue Oct 29, 2013 2:01 am
I think everyone who knows how to sharpen puts a slight micro-bevel on whether intentional or not, watch Murray Carter. I am talking less that .005 wide.
Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:52 am
Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:01 pm
Hello, Mark. Or, whoever can help. About the burr...what is a "good" burr, or a sufficient burr? After doing some sharpening on the EP, if you can feel a very, very slight burr along one edge with the other edge feeling smooth, then the same thing along the opposite edge after working on the burred edge, is that enough or do you want a heavier burr.
In other words, if I can feel ANY burr is that enough? Thanks.
Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:40 pm
RAY <> If you feel a burr, then there is a burr, and all you are trying to do is generate a burr. Anymore is grinding off metal unnecessarily...
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