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 Post subject: Re-handle question for TAZ
PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 2279
I'm open to other responses, but I'm directing this question to Tim, since he uses JB Kwik Weld to attach handles, and that's what I'll be using on this project.

So...I knocked the oval handle off my Kajihara KU Gyuto and I want to install it on the Goko W#1 240 that should be on my doorstep today 8-).

After the trial fitting and adjustment on the Goko, I'd like to know some specifics of the JB epoxy application. Do you put some on the tang as well as in the handle slot? What do you do about excess epoxy getting squeezed out during the install. (TAZ, you're probably good enough at this that it doesn't usually happen ;-). How do you apply the epoxy into the handle slot?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Re-handle question for TAZ
PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 4:59 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:00 am
Posts: 643
I'm also really interested to see this. I'd love to do a rehandle of my own but the install always threw me for a loop


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 Post subject: Re: Re-handle question for TAZ
PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:13 pm
Posts: 2752
Location: CT
I get messy :) I use the pointed square bamboo skewers to get the epoxy into the tang slot (or popsicle sticks broken the long way if the skewers are too thick) and then cover the whole tang including the sides, with the epoxy. Insert the tang into the slot and push fully in. There should be some air bubbles to pop from the air getting forced out. Once the handle is in place, I wipe off the bulk of the excess with paper towel pieces wetted down with Denatured Alcohol. Now I align the knife to the handle and put epoxy in any gaps that may have opened up. When the epoxy thickens up slightly, I take a razor blade, and wrap it a couple times in paper towel wetted with the Denatured Alcohol. I clean up the top of the tang so the epoxy is flush with the top of the ferule and there are no gaps. Then wipe down the rest of the blade and handle to remove any epoxy. You will probably need to check, re align, reapply epoxy where needed and re clean a few times until the epoxy cures enough to hold the blade in place. Put it somewhere where the blade won't be pushed to cause it to misalign (don't put it on its side) to let the epoxy fully cure (20 min at room temp or so).


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 Post subject: Re: Re-handle question for TAZ
PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 4:48 pm 
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Thanks Tim. You're awesome! Great description - that's exactly what I'm looking for. I'll give it a go.


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 Post subject: Re: Re-handle question for TAZ
PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 11:19 pm 

Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:29 pm
Posts: 500
Another question for you Tim. When you make your handles, do you drill a hole in the end after handle is done and file it out with a needle file? Or do you make the handle in two pieces and a dado cut into each side before gluing together. I am wanting to make a few handles and am wondering which is the best or easiest way.


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 Post subject: Re: Re-handle question for TAZ
PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 5:03 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:13 pm
Posts: 2752
Location: CT
I drill a 3/16" hole in the handle using a long drill bit. I buy the 12" long drill bits and then use my belt sander (hold at an angle and grind away to cut thru it, then square up the end) to cut them down to around 6" or so. I use a "needle rasp" from WoodCraft:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200027 ... -of-6.aspx I go to the store and buy just the square ones instead of having to buy the set.

I usually get the square ones, and keep one as it with the teeth on all 4 sides and I take another and then grind the teeth off of opposite sides so it will make a narrower cut. When I do the handles, I use soft 1/2" diameter wood dowels to join the handle/ferrule together, so I am rasping out around 3/8" of the ferrule material and then I am into the softer wood dowel. I can usually fit a tang in 10-15 minutes tops this way. I usually make the slots a big thicker than they need to be; MOST of the forged tangs are not straight and symmetrical and may fit crooked into the tang slot. You insert the tang into the handle and the blade is slightly crooked. You can also bend the tang slightly and file them down, but it's easier to make the tang slot larger and get it aligned correctly. When converting knives from western tangs, the tangs are usually nice and straight and flat and easier to fit.


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