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 Post subject: stone choices
PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 4:50 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2013 6:25 am
Posts: 4
Hello mark,
I wandered on to your site and it sure is impressive, overwhelming even! I know this topic is an often over-discussed one but with all the choices and all the new stones that come out it's hard to keep up.
My work includes spoon carving with sloyd knives (scandi ground) and hook knives, a felling axe and carving axes. I tune and use old hand planes and have some new lie-nielsens. Bench chisels and carving gouges, with a few other edge tools that need a keen edge.
My sharpening regimen has been the "scary" method and I'm tired of it. What I would like to do is use DMT c,f,EF depending on my tool and what it needs. I want to keep my shop simple and the amount of steps down. Now the tricky (for me) question....could I follow the dmt's with the green brick then the imanishi 10k and be Ok? I like a polish on my blades and I'm open to suggestions. Reading all the reviews I trust your advice. Thanks so much for offering your services and take care.

ben kirk


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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 5:11 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:44 pm
Posts: 633
I'm with you on the confusion as far as stones are concerned. lol The more I read, the more I see that stones are just as subjective subject as knives, even more so now than ever before it seems. Everyone has a different opinion and stones they love, and none of them are wrong... just different. I'm to the point of thinking that the only way to know what works is to try different options and see what you like. Just like knives, there is no cut-and-dry best. The problem with that is it can get very expensive fairly quickly. lol

I kind of miss the days when I could go through a couple of different grit/density Arkansas stones, strop, and be happy. That was probably 25 years ago though, and things change. Now I'm finally "graduating" from diamond stones to water stones. Always something new to learn and always something new to buy. lol

What I am curious about now myself is if it is safe to sharpen white #1 on a 600 grit diamond stone if I ever need to re-profile/thin out the blade and move on to a 1k grit to finish it before stropping, or will the diamond stone be too harsh for the steel and leave it in worse shape than when I started? Maybe I'll just have to try it when the time comes and figure it out. lol

Good luck with your "quest"! ;)


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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 6:56 pm 

Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 12:29 am
Posts: 863
Following diamond hones with waterstones is tricky and not something I would recommend. once you get past a very coarse diamond hone like the Atoma 140 or DMT 120 waterstones have a great advantage in cutting speed and grit range. For example: a coarse diamond hone will be about as fast as a 1k waterstone and the Naniwa green brick is already finer than the 8k DMT. So basically a 1k and the green brick just replaced all the diamond stones you have listed and then some.

Now, for the kind of sharpening you plan to do I would recommend harder stones like the shapton or chosera. Personally I like the chosera but both will work well. They are also splash-n-go and will remove steel in a hurry.


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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:14 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2013 6:25 am
Posts: 4
Thanks guys,
I guess I might get a couple shaptons and see how it goes. It sucks there isn't a place to try before you buy ha we all could skip this awful feeling of "what if i hate it?"
ben


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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 2171
Ben - try the Shapton Glass stones. If you sharpen chisels and such, you'll probably appreciate their hardness. They cut almost any kind of steel very well and they don't dish easily.

The combo of 500 and 2000 grit is an interesting option. The 500 is coarse enough to cut bevels on duller knives (it might take a while if their really bad) and the 2000 will give you a great finished edge for most any standard kitchen duties. Some people are adding a 6K or 8K stone later to use lightly after their 2000 to add just a touch of polish to the edge. You can even strop your knife lightly on a dry 2K (or 6-8K) to touch up a properly sharpened knife as needed in between your full sharpening sessions.

Mark's stone holder really works well: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/nastho.html.


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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 4:23 am 

Joined: Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:44 pm
Posts: 633
I can vouch for the stone holder. I didn't buy it from Mark (sorry! lol) but it works very well and doesn't slide around even if the surface it is on is wet.


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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 4:40 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2013 6:25 am
Posts: 4
Thanks everyone for your recommendations! I ended up ordering the shapton pro 1k and 5k I'm excited to try them out. Hopefully my search is over and I can add a 8k to the line up eventually. As far as the lower grits, I won't often need them but when I get new tools that have bad factory edges I will want either the 220 or 320. Does anyone have either and any advice on which to get? i would assume 320 but me and my assumptions got me in to this mess in the first place. Thanks -ben


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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:36 pm 
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I like the Shapton 320 personally. If I need anything more coarse than that I use a diamond plate.



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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 5:26 am 
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Jeff B,

Have you got the 220 GS as well?

If so could you give some feedback/comparison of the two please?

Thanks.

Rookie.

:)



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 Post subject: Re: stone choices
PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 10:01 am 
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The jump between any 2k and 10k stone is IMO too large. Consider something inbetween in the 5k range.

When you jump from diamonds to waterstones is a personal choice, depending on your needs for extreme flatness and the type of steel being abraded. For harder steels like the lie-nielsens plane blades, the GlassStones were specifically designed for these. If you find the Shapton Pro stones a bit slow on these plane blades, a touch of CBN on those stones of comparable grit will even exceed the performance of the GlassStones ( that would be 16 microns and 4 microns respectively). You could jump successfully from the coarser diamond plates to say the 500 GS at the DMT coarse grit level or go to the fine and jump to the 1k GS. If you are jumping from DMT XC or XXC to waterstones, I'd recommend the 150 Nubatama as an ideal stone to follow, leaving a refined finish for a 150 and doing it quickly. It is refined enough to skip a 220 or 320.

---
Ken



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