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 Post subject: Konosuke Fujiyama Blue #2 Gyuto questions
PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 6:16 pm 

Joined: Mon May 06, 2013 2:34 pm
Posts: 103
Just got my Konosuke Fujiyama Blue #2 Gyuto 240mm from Mark earlier this week. I'm psyched, this is a huge step up for me - I decided to open my purse for a really nice gyuto after a few years of flirting with Japanese knives. Out of the box the overall aesthetics of the knife are ridiculous, truly a step above everything I've ever held in my hands. Also has a very nice heft to it, that I am really pleased with. That said, the out of the box edge isn't all that great, granted all I've done is test it with some newspaper. Any recommendations from others with the same or similar knife about how to touch up the edge? When really addressing a dull edge my usual approach is to just use 1K, 5K, and strop. Or Occasionally I'll also use an 8K to refine the edge further. I'm thinking for starters, I might just try a 5K and strop and see what happens.

Another question I have is with the construction of the knife. The only comparison point I have is my Takeda petty, which is also clad in reactive steel. That knife is much thinner at the spine and so the start of the bevel is really pretty short, maybe a 5-6mm from the end of the kuroichi to edge. On the Fujiyama the spine is much thicker and it's so thin behind the edge that the bevel is quite significant. If you look at my pictures, there is some asymmetry in the transition from the beginning of the bevel to the edge. On front side the cloudy bit goes further down than it does on the back side. I'm assuming the cloudy bit is the cladding and the shiny stuff is Blue #2. Is this right? Does it matter that it is like this? In a perfect world I'd like it to be more even, but it is a handmade knife..

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 Post subject: Re: Konosuke Fujiyama Blue #2 Gyuto questions
PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:17 am
Posts: 5993
Location: Derby City, Kentucky
It's not unusual for an OOTB edge to not be up to par. I would give it a light stropping and if your still not satisfied go to the 5k.
You are correct about the cladding. Once the carbon edge patinas it gives a great contrast to the cladding and lots of character and you may like it better then.

If at first you don't succeed, pay someone that knows what they're doing.
 Post subject: Re: Konosuke Fujiyama Blue #2 Gyuto questions
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 3:17 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 13, 2013 12:25 pm
Posts: 499
I have a Kono Fujiyama White#2, gyuto 240 and the OTB edge was like you experienced,I used a 5k Rika ,8k King and stropped on horse butt and in less than 10 minutes had a screaming edge that has had great retention for white#2. I maintain it with light stropping as needed. The blade is a great combo of a sturdy spine, perfect convexing down to a very thin edge. The extra weight of the blade gives it more cutting power than the lighter Kono HD. The cladding line on mine is fairly even on both sides of the blade. As they are hand made the cladding lines can vary from knife to knife. The reactivity is about the same as my other white #2 blades. It is a fantastic knife and it performs as well as it looks. Enjoy!

 Post subject: Re: Konosuke Fujiyama Blue #2 Gyuto questions
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:49 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 13, 2013 3:23 am
Posts: 88
Location: Rockwall, Texas
I got the Fujiyama White #1 Gyuto a few months ago and had similar questions about the box edge. One of the mods pointed out that the sharpener will put a "starter" edge on the blade so the user can refine it to their wants and needs. After learning how to use water stones and discovering they just beat the pants off my beloved Norton diamond hones and Black hard Arkansas stone with the horse butt leather edging out my old Russian leather strop, I can get an almost surgical edge using the Ume 1K, a Binsui J-nat, a Shobu J-nat, and the horse butt. I get similar results with my Masakage Koishi Aogami Petty, it just takes a little longer, and Kono's HD2 Nakiri does the same. Patience and practice will undoubtedly result in a screaming sharp edge (the screaming starts after you have one of those little accidents involving your fingers) that will last a looooong time with that Aogami steel. I use my knives almost daily at home, and my prep time is a fraction of what it was with those, Wursthofs...ummm, Wüsthof slabs of low-carbon steel the marketers managed to pass off as great knives.

Fall down seven times, get up eight. - Buddhist proverb
A man without a good knife is a dead man. - Viking saying
If we don't point out ignorance and stupidity wherever they occur, ignorance and stupidity will think it's okay. - Gallagher
 Post subject: Re: Konosuke Fujiyama Blue #2 Gyuto questions
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:00 pm 
Forum Moderator

Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:13 pm
Posts: 3100
Location: CT
Most Japanese knives are slightly asymmetric favoring the right side, so the core would be more exposed on the right side looking at the spine. Some knives have a lefty bias, too. I have Aaron Gibson's 240mm Blue Funayuki gyuto here and it had a more pronounced grind on the left, so when I thinned it, I kept it that way since he is a lefty. His 240mm Blue #2 gyuto was more pronounced on the right, so I tried to bring it more to 50/50 by grinding a bit more/higher on the left side. The right side core being exposed more is somewhat normal.

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