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 Post subject: Atoma 400
PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:46 pm 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:28 pm
Posts: 487
I treated myself to another Atoma 140 and for my first time the 400 Atoma.

I use the plates for flattening primarily but decided to give the 400 a good workout on a batch of approximately 40 very dull knives.

The 400 is absolutely exceptional, I had to thin them all too and I couldn't be more pleased with the results. I follow up with the 500 Shapton Glass from there followed by a 1k Chosera finishing on the 5K Chosera.

My only concern now is how long it will last, at 100 bucks a pop I hope to get 6 months out of it and if so, I'll be a happy camper.

The folks at Lee Valley here told me I am the only so far that has purchased the Atoma's, I hope they don't stop carrying them, I'm getting another 400 at the end of the month to use only for flattening.

Peter


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 Post subject: Re: Atoma 400
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 2:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 2268
Peter, can you describe your thinning process? What part of the blade are you hitting with the plate/stones? The bevel shoulders or something more drastic?

I see a lot of variations on what people consider thinning and when to thin where on the blade.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Atoma 400
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 12:17 pm 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:28 pm
Posts: 487
Steve, sure I can describe it, I've adjusted it a little actually and I think that was a result of somthing Jason the learned one told me.

I work from the bevel shoulders down to the edge of the edge. I first just take a look at the knife to determine where I need to start and I paint that area (bevel shoulders) and go from there. I work at the same angle until the edge is reached and the burr forms. I used to work at two angles, I would work on the bevel shoulders until they were knocked down to my satisfaction and then raise the angle a little by lifting the spine and then sharpen to the edge. Now I find better results by maintaining a constant angle from start to finish with every stone. Again, this was advice from Jason and I thank him for it daily.....in my mind as I do the work.

Now if I am using the Edge Pro, it's little different, I'm creating compound bevels by starting at an angle of 15 deg for example and working to a nice polish, the edge is not being touched, once I'm happy with this Relief Angle and it's nice and looks like liquid metal if I have done a good job, I raise the angle to 20 deg and then actually sharpen the knife. This happens very quiickly, I'll start with a 5k stone, it doesn't take long. To me this is also thinnning. I could follow the same procedure on the EP as I use free hand if I want, I.e. choose one angle and just keep going, I've done that and it works fine. This I learned from the ultra skilled one, MadRookie.

I hope this answers the question. I suppose there are many variations, as sharpeners we often explore different techniques, sometimes it works and sometimes we shake our head and think "what was I thinking". I recently moved to using pressure on my trailing strokes for example, it works very well for me, I find it easier, quicker and with better results. It's a variable that for me is effective and fun.

Take care


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 Post subject: Re: Atoma 400
PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 3:58 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:17 am
Posts: 3951
Do they sell just the diamond replacement pads or do you have to buy the whole plate each time?



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 Post subject: Re: Atoma 400
PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:57 am 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:28 pm
Posts: 487
I need to buy the whole plate Jeff, as I said if I get six months from one I will be more than satisfied and I'm sure I will. It took me about 8 months to wear out the 140. Well worth the cost though in terms of the time they save me and they set the stage beautifully for the rest of the sharpening process.


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 Post subject: Re: Atoma 400
PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:17 am
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Totally understand Peter.



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