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 Post subject: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 3:53 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:51 am
Posts: 158
Location: Austin tX
I would like to hear from professional cooks who only work on poly boards, and professional cooks who have used multiple different steels. I only use aeb-l at work but thinking of switching up. I do a lot of chopping a lot of vegetables (mainly vegan and vegetarian cooking) hard, soft. Unfortunately have to use the poly boards, I have loved Aeb-l. Here are some steels I been eyeing stainless, ATS314, srs-15,sg2,G3, carbon reactive super blue, blue2,52100(I own this steel but never got a chance to use it on the poly board in a professional kitchen) not interested in hap 40 or zdp right now


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 23, 2013 5:33 am
Posts: 104
Location: Metro Detroit
I have used both Aogami Super and S35Vn on professional poly boards. In my experience, Aogami super holds it edge for about a week and half to two weeks before it has to be touched up on the stones; then about once a month full sharpen on 1.2k up. But that's just my edge preferences. S35Vn seems to hold up longer, but I haven't used it as much at work as I have my Kohetsu. For what it's worth, In my most recent position at my work, I'm cutting a lot of lettuces and veggies for the pantry station.



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Cook for Country Club of Detroit: AM Pantry

Knife Experience:
150mm Hiromoto petty
9" New West Knife Works Chef's
270mm Kohetsu AS Gyuto
150mm Masakage Yuki Honesuki
8 and 10" Wusthof Classics
Crappy Mercer culinary school knives
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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 4:04 pm 

Joined: Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:02 am
Posts: 271
did you hone the AS knife at all during the week, pnk?


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 4:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 23, 2013 5:33 am
Posts: 104
Location: Metro Detroit
Just a light hone every other day on a ceramic "steel"



_________________
Cook for Country Club of Detroit: AM Pantry

Knife Experience:
150mm Hiromoto petty
9" New West Knife Works Chef's
270mm Kohetsu AS Gyuto
150mm Masakage Yuki Honesuki
8 and 10" Wusthof Classics
Crappy Mercer culinary school knives
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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 5:34 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:51 am
Posts: 158
Location: Austin tX
I do about the same with Aeb-l, sometimes I go a week with some light Stropping and later in the week light honing, I guess there really isn't much of a difference


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 6:07 pm 

Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:15 am
Posts: 1049
Location: Raleigh, NC
I use the poly boards on mixed knives (HH, AEB-L, unnamed MolyChro steels). I touch up the HH and AEB-L, just stropping on a stone, every two or so times they really move product, that being say 50# or up. I sharpen as soon as I see real edge deterioration, say every week or two. For work I'm comfortable with that routine. I only hone my Solingen Specials these days.


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 1:37 am 

Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:00 am
Posts: 621
I've used the majority of all the popular steels at work, on polyboards.

Whether it be Swedish steel, Hitachi white or blue, R2, Henkels stainless, Moly Vanadium, etc

They all perform within the same range of each other aside from White #1.

I know the poly board isn't going to be gentle on my edge so if I'm about to get into a heavy amount of prep or a busy service. I pick a steel that has enough edge retention to get me through the night without needing a strop but is not so wear resistant that in a week or so time when I want to touch it up, it's a pain.

I'd have to say bar none my favorite steel is splitting hairs between R-2 and AS. But due to the easier sharpening on the AS I usually take it out of the knife roll more often.


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 3:34 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:11 pm
Posts: 289
Location: NE
kirkystyle wrote:I would like to hear from professional cooks who only work on poly boards, and professional cooks who have used multiple different steels. I only use aeb-l at work but thinking of switching up. I do a lot of chopping a lot of vegetables (mainly vegan and vegetarian cooking) hard, soft. Unfortunately have to use the poly boards, I have loved Aeb-l. Here are some steels I been eyeing stainless, ATS314, srs-15,sg2,G3, carbon reactive super blue, blue2,52100(I own this steel but never got a chance to use it on the poly board in a professional kitchen) not interested in hap 40 or zdp right now


You'll likely see better results from a high carbon steel such as SG2, G3, and SRS15. Are you looking for stainless steel in particular? Depending on what ingredients you are cutting may influence your decision if reactivity is a concern. Acidic ingredients degrade edges(more so on carbon) and may affect edge life. Another factor would be your sharpening routine. A knife with an ultra refined edge (16k for example) will not functionally cut as well in the long run as a more coarse edge (around 3k is what I prefer for veggies). Ingredients with skins like bell peppers, tomato, etc. help indicate if your edge needs touched up. Having enough "tooth" to the edge to pierce through these items is what I refer to functionally cutting. If you don't want to sharpen on stones frequently(about twice a week), ceramic honing rods are the way to go for higher hardness steels.

Sharpening factors aside, I think any of the steels you listed would be able to go 2-3 days (maybe more) without sharpening and that would be in pursuit of flawless performance. ;)


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 1:54 pm 

Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:40 pm
Posts: 258
R2 and Blue Super are my to favorites for retention on poly boards... and I don't like super refined edges for work.. 2k shapton pro and a quick strop to clean up is my favorite gyuto edge for work... but alas it still wont last for ever... I really like the sp 2k for this as all it takes is a few minutes and I have that toothy edge back and I find it quicker than going at the rod several times a day... usually touch up at the begining or end of a shift and have no struggles through the day. that being said when I do a full sharpening I will take the knife up to finishing point, either rika 5k or kitiyama some times, or shobu natural, use it at work and then drop it back to the shapton 2k for day to day use and don't do a full resharpening for usually another few weeks or more...


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 Post subject: Re: Steel vs poly board
PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2014 1:18 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 12:42 am
Posts: 56
Atang: "Sharpening factors aside, I think any of the steels you listed would be able to go 2-3 days (maybe more) without sharpening and that would be in pursuit of flawless performance. ;)"

Im with atang on this. Ive found that at a certain point, as I got faster and better at getting knives shave sharp, i also got pickier about how dull i was willing to put up with. When i was doing 5-6 hours of knife work a day, I would typically touch my knives up ever couple of days simply because it was worth the five minutes spent sharpening them if it meant sharper knives for the rest of the day. above a certain level, the type of steel stops mattering too much. The steels you've listed are all above that point.


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