Fri May 03, 2013 7:46 am
Any plans to carry a larger version of the universal stone holder that can accomodate the full size DMT Diamond Plates (10" x 4") ?
If not I'll get the XXC 8x3 plate, but I'd like to be able to use the full size ones.
Fri May 03, 2013 8:33 pm
I looked at that before posting. 250mm is only 9.84 inches, which I was inclined to assume is too small to hold a 10" stone.
Sat May 04, 2013 11:24 pm
That stone holder, or the Suehiro holder I have, will go just a tad over 10 inches.
Sun May 05, 2013 6:31 am
Ah, thank you. If the description were clarified, I bet sales of the 10" stones would improve.
Sun May 05, 2013 7:23 am
Ok, just ordered an Atoma 140x.
Question: is there a recommended range of stone grits that the 140x should/shouldnt be used to re-level, and if there is a grit cut-off for the 140x (and I assume there is), which secondary stone is recommended for the grit range that the former isn't optimal for ?
Sun May 05, 2013 9:32 am
As with everything... it depends. I follow up my 140Atoma with a 1200Atoma to smooth the scratch pattern the former creates, or on high grit stones I just use the 1200 because they are never in bad shape. You can get a 1200 plate @2"x3" (e.g., http://www.chefknivestogo.com/at2x3140gr.html
) from Ken direct for a fraction of the cost of the whole 8" just to use as a smoothing plate & it doubles awesome as a slurry plate, aka nagura, because the only mud it creates is that of the slurred stone.
Sun May 05, 2013 12:24 pm
Just another way of doing it...
I flatten and bevel each and every one of my water stones with a DMT XXC plate. After flattening and beveling, I dress and lap each stone as follows:
1. Remove all grit left from flattening by rinsing each stone clean.
2. Rub each stone in succession against whatever stone in your set is the next step coarser. Be careful to keep both stones moving. Flat, wet stones can stick together like you wouldn't believe. Doing this step under running water can be helpful.
3. Keep it up until you get good mud.
In my set that means I rub the 500 against the 1.2K, the 1.2K against the 3K, and the 3K against the 8K; as a preliminary to sharpening I leave the 1.2K/3K mud on the 1.2K and the 3K/8K mud on the 3K and 8K. This process not only dresses the stones, but gets the mud going as well. The process works especially well for my set because it goes from harder to softer: Beston -> Bester -> Chocera -> Gesshin. If my 3K were softer than my 8K (say a Naniwa SS 3K) I'd start the 8K with the Bester in order to get the DMT's scratches off but would still go to the (hypothetical) SS for mud purposes.
Nagura stones are essentially talc. They promise to get mud going, but all they really do is spread wet talc on the stone; and that doesn't do much.
Atoma plates are great; but -- IMO -- they're not worth their price if used solely for sharpening. Flattening, lapping, dressing, prepping stones isn't fine work, it's maintaining the maintenance. There's such a thing as too much.
Sun May 05, 2013 12:40 pm
By beveling I assume you make a few swipes along the edges of the stones, so that the center is always microscopically higher ?
Never thought of that before but it makes sense.
I've only had one stone (an orange Global 1000) until placing my order earlier, so its never been leveled. I always just instinctively adjusted my honing strokes to try to ensure smooth even wear across the stone ... but the edges do feel a bit high.
Sun May 05, 2013 4:48 pm
ISI when he is talking about beveling he is talking about a 45 degree on the four edges of the stone so that the stone does not have "sharp" edges. You do not want a higher center, the point of flattening is to have a flat surface.
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