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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts after first re-handle
PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:41 pm 

Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:29 pm
Posts: 500
Everything is glued together slightly oversized first. Then when finishing the handle shape, the primary handle, spacer and ferrule all get shaped together so it all matches perfectly.


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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts after first re-handle
PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:24 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:08 am
Posts: 58
red wattle wrote "Took me awhile to find it. I hope I can link to it correctly. I touched on this technique in this post, but didn't explain it so thoroughly.
taz575↓
Re: Bought some Handle Material

Ok I don't think that made a link. You can type that in the search and you should be able to find it."


Thanks Red. That search worked for me. The process seems pretty straightforward. I'll give it a try.
At the risk of derailing this thread, I wonder do you have a process for shaping a D handle?


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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts after first re-handle
PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2012 1:34 pm
Posts: 344
Thanks for sharing this. I plan to give knife handle making and replacement a try as one of my retirement hobbies.
I appreciate you sharing your method. Woodworking is a skill I know little about, so I want to learn a lot from your successes.


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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts after first re-handle
PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:13 pm
Posts: 2875
Location: CT
Yeah, for me, the brass wanted to leave brass dust in the pores of the non stabilized wood that I tried it with. Sometimes the wood (even stabilized stuff!!) can move slightly and then once flush metal spacer now stands proud. Copper seems to be softer and tends to sand easier than Nickel Silver or Stainless spacers. I use a large granite reference plate to sand the handles on. Too much heat can work harden these steels and also burn the epoxy and make the handle fall apart. Sucks when it happens!

The dowel method simply is as follows. Drill all the way thru your ferrule with a 3/16" drill bit. Then drill 3/4 of the way thru the ferrule from the backside with a 1/2" spade drill bit. Then drill down into the handle section around 3-4" with the 1/2" spade drill bit. Use a 1/2" dowel so that it is all the way in the ferrule and around halfway down the hole in the wood handle material. If you have spacers, drill them with the 1/2" bit too so that the dowel can go from the ferrule, thru the spacers and into the handle. Epoxy everything and clamp it together and let cure. Now drill down thru the hole in the ferrule (usually filled with epoxy now) with a long 3/16" drill bit until you drill completely thru the dowel and into the open bottom portion of the handle. This makes it easier to fit longer tangs and the filing dust is in empty space, rather than making your tang slot shallower. I use a 1/8" Square Needle Rasp from Woodcraft for the tang slot after drilling the 3/16" hole. I take one of the sq needle rasps and grind off the opposite sides to make it cut on 2 opposing sides rather than all 4 sides for narrower tangs and then use an unmodified needle rasp for larger tang slots.


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