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Re: Stone Progression On Various Knives

Mon May 06, 2013 1:39 pm

I've used the Nubatama 150 now for some time and I'm never ceased to be amazed how quickly it generates a burr. Lower grit stones are not be feared once you learn to hold a solid angle and most importantly how to regulate pressure. When I started I used waaaaaay too much pressure and ended up grinding away steel unnecessarily. Once you learn to modulate pressure you allow the stone to do the work, and in the case of a stone like the 150, it does it's job lightening fast and I'm on to the next stone. -Josh

Re: Stone Progression On Various Knives

Thu May 09, 2013 4:39 pm

Hello, and thanks. I am using the standard EP stones until I get quite a bit better. Haven't had a lot of practice time lately.

Seems like the following stones make sense for me in the future:
Atoma 140EP, Shapton Glass 220, Shapton 500, Shapton 1000, Shapton 2000, and Shapton 4000.

I already got the Shapton Glass 220 and will get the others as time and money permit, if it looks like it's the right thing to do. The Atoma will probably be the last one I get.



I have read on here that somewhere in the sharpening progression process someone recommended a different stone for a different steel. Can't find it.

Re: Stone Progression On Various Knives

Thu May 09, 2013 5:07 pm

Shapton Pro or GS will handle any type of steel you have. If you already have the GS 220 I would consider skipping the 500 and even the 2000k if your going to get the 4000k. Just no need for that many steps with those stones and gives you more of a chance to mess up. After the 1k, I would consider going 4k then 8k, or even 3k and 6k, rather than 2k and 4k. 3k is a good place to stop on softer steel and 6-8k on the harder stuff. JMHO and I'm not the pro as many here are.

Re: Stone Progression On Various Knives

Thu May 09, 2013 9:13 pm

Rather than go into detail about which stone to choose, let me back up a bit to make some generalities.

Use less synthetic stones on softer steels. For knives that abrade quickly you can make big jumps in grit. For abrasion resistant steels use small jumps.

A stone should be used to do the work it is designed for. Can you use a 10k stone to set bevels - yes. BUT it will take a long time, wear out your expensive stone and dish the stone during the session. Use a 150 grit stone to do 150 grit work. When you reach the point where it can not further improve the edge, go finer. Don't use a 6k stone to do 2k work.

For abrasion resistant steels, double your grit in a sequence 1k 2k 4k 8k 16k. You often hear that you can skip a 2k after a 1k. Don't. Remember that the gap between an 8k and a 16k is just as big as the gap between a 1k and 2k. You also want a 2k so that when touching up a knife you don't have to go to too coarse of a choice - so start at your 2k stone rather than unnecessary abrasion with your 1k for instance.

Now there are exceptions. So if it takes a long time to soak your stones, use less stones. So if you are using glasstones, Shapton Pros or other stones that don't need soaking or very short soak times, use more stones. You will make less strokes in total to create your edge from start to finish and it takes less work to accomplish your goals.

Natural stones. These tend to break down, so you can take much bigger jumps since the grit becomes finer as you use it. So for instance a NATURAL aoto will start in the 1k range and finish with you ready to use a polishing stone like a Meara or Yaginoshima and then an even finer polisher like a Nakayama or Ozuku or a strop. Spending time on a single stone allows you to do the work of several synthetic stones.

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Ken
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