Well Mark's comments about my approach are pretty accurate - Thanks! Is is worth adding a few comments about not producing burr.
Edge leading vs trailing. You can produce burr going in BOTH directions. This is more obvious with power grinding on a belt grinder. My Burr King unit goes in an edge leading direction. I can certainly produce burr with this unit. My Coote grinder goes both directions and you can produce burr edge leading and trailing. WHY?
Burr is produced when one goes past the point of creating a union of the two sides - in either direction. It's not so much that you are pushing the metal over the edge but that you are pushing the metal to a point after the two sides meet where there is no support. If you want to see a similar phenomena in nature think of ocean waves. A swell has no foam. A large surf wave reaches a point where the water no longer has laminar flow and becomes turbulent flow. Think of this disorganized flow and burr formation (which is fatigued metal) as somewhat similar phenomena. On a belt grinder at full speed, you easily blow past this point of union. By hand you can sneak up to the point of burr formation. With higher pressure this occurs in fewer strokes and it is easy to blow past it. With lighter pressure you can hit the point where it is just about to 'burr'. On coarser grits you can approach this to within a fraction of a stroke - yes you can
HOW? The trick is to develop a sense of perceiving a SUDDEN INCREASE IN SHARPNESS. Right before the two sides meet the sharpness goes WAY UP. Perceiving this is a skill worth developing. It is worth testing along the blade to get all of the blade there close to simultaneously.
Using burr formation is a crutch. For a beginner sharpener it is a necessary one - at least you are in the ball park. But it is a skill once learned to unlearn.
If you want to understand this crutch and getting around it, try sharpening a ceramic blade where you don't have burr formation as a crutch to use in your technique. Also try honing a razor and dealing with removing burr and you will see why razor honers don't rely on burr formation.
To some extent 'no burr' is an ideal and not always practical. When removing chips, especially big ones, you do go past the point of union working your way down through the chip(s). Here you strive to abrade it in place as it is formed, switching sides as necessary.
Also note that if you simply grind on one side of the blade until you get burr, you are temporarily changing the blade's symmetry and creating a burr off center of where your final edge will reside anyway, which is rather pointless. Here light abrasion removing the burr in place rather than bending it over back and forth is preferred or trying to rip it off running through a cork, felt or the end of a piece of wood. When I resort to this, it is due to either very casual technique on very cheap knives or a personal failure of my technique not meeting my own standards.