I am not an expert with the EP, but I think you may have the issue I sometimes encounter when sharpening a new knife for the first time...
Did you try the Sharpie test? One thing I often do is apply Sharpie to not just the edge, but on the bottom of point in which the two angles meet. Then I give it a few passes and look at it with a loupe. I find in many cases (mainly on initial sharpening) that while the Sharpie on the sides of the edges are removed (which appears to indicate all is well), the Sharpie on the bottom most area is not removed and so the stone is not making full contact with the edge, with the lack of contact happening in the precise area the cut begins at. So I have found that the Sharpie test can be a little deceiving if attention is only paid to the sides.
At first I thought this was from a bur that wasnt removed, but in the large majority of cases it wasn't. I believe the actual reason this happens is because the angle is somewhat variable, and in some cases the bevel itself is not even. Especially at the tip area, this seems to be much more common because sometimes the angles on this area are different from the rest of the knife. I have also owned some knives with convex edges that have had similar issues.
I generally put dead even angles on my knives (which with folding knives especially, it results in the edge around the tip becoming taller than on the rest of the knife (example - https://www19.corecommerce.com/~edgepro ... dge_lg.jpg
) and when this happens, I sharpen through to set that completely even angle, which fixes the problem. In a few cases where the issue is really, really minor, I have also raised the pivot ever so slightly (like less than 1/2 of a degree) and this sometimes works. This issue is very subtle, but I find it can have a big effect on how sharp the knife is (especially on the area closer to the tip). Someone with more knowledge than me may understand this issue at a technical level that I do not know.
I noticed you said you used the 120 silicone carbide and the 220 stone. If a knife isn't super-super dull and has serious edge deformation or major damage like large chips, I avoid usage of the 120 and 220 all together. They remove a significant amount of metal and tend to damage the edge as they go, and I find this results in a need to work through the higher grit stones for much longer (this especially applies to the 120 which is pretty aggressive). Provided the knife isn't in super terrible condition, avoiding the 120/220 unless necessary can increase the longevity of the knife (and makes sharpening much easier) IMO. I generally start at 600 or 1000 on my knives, and 400 if they are duller. I only use the 120 or 220 for reprofiling and repairing major damage, and mainly the 220 as I only use the 120 if the edge is just wrecked and damaged to a point where significant metal needs to be removed to fix the blade.