Tue Jan 21, 2014 12:57 pm
How difficult will it be to sharpen past the clad on a richmond laser, AS steel 240mm gyuto. Am I out of luck or how does this work. I'm sure there are some great post on this already, but I couldn't find any on this particular knife. If the knife type is not a huge deal, links would be great, and sorry for asking an old question. Thanks in advance guys.
Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:47 pm
A few points:
1) I am a bit confused about what you are asking. Have you sharpened back to the cladding line already? Are you asking prospectively so that you are prepared? Has the knife been damaged and you are trying to repair it? These answers not withstanding...
2) The cladding is usually a softer steel than the core steel so it should readily abrade away while sharpening.
3) Search the forum for "thinning". Basically as you sharpen farther and farther up the blade, the edge gets wider even if the bevel angle is the same. Grinding metal off the area behind the bevel will thin the edge back down so the knife continues to perform the way it was new.
4) The core steel continues a way underneath the cladding, grind away the cladding by thinning, put a new edge on the core steel and you are in business.
Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:52 am
point #2 answers my question. thank you.
Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:13 pm
Wed Jan 22, 2014 2:38 pm
See it as sharpening a pencil, you have to remove some wood to free the core. You don't want to incorporate the soft clad steel into your edge. Don't ask how I know...
Wed Jan 22, 2014 2:43 pm
Benuser, that's a great analogy! You mind if I use it in a video if the need arises?
Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:17 pm
I'm afraid that analogy isn't mine, found it years ago in KF, not sure about the author. Watercrawl perhaps??
Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:52 pm
"Don't ask how I know..."
You make it so tempting to ask, 'cause you know its a great story
Wed Feb 12, 2014 5:14 pm
I thought it was obvious. I the good old days -- just a few years ago -- the Hiromotos had a very fat clad, and the free core at the left side was very, very small. After some sharpening without thinning that left side I incorporated a little clad part into the edge. A very curious, persistent burr was the result.
Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:30 pm
Benuser wrote:See it as sharpening a pencil, you have to remove some wood to free the core. You don't want to incorporate the soft clad steel into your edge. Don't ask how I know...
I love that analogy. I may have to rip you off on that one.
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