Fri Apr 04, 2014 9:07 pm
I'm not going to lie. I use a cheap bread knife exclusively for bread. I'll give it a little love, but when the knife is in need of a full sharpening, I buy a replacement. Sharpening each tooth is more tedious than I can manage.
Sat Apr 05, 2014 7:21 am
I am chiming in here too. I have the paper wheel setup. First using the grit wheel, I put the flat side of the knife almost flat against the wheel. Make some passes with light pressure. Then I go to the slotted stropping wheel loaded with white compound, on the serrated side, drawing each serration along the edge of the wheel, polishing each one.
Then go back to the flat side of the knife and draw it along the length to polish the back side and remove any residual burr.
If I catch a couple of stubborn spots, I also have a diamond rod I can use on the serrated side.
The best example of my method so far, I have a set of Ekco Arrowhead knifes, I took the fairly dull serrated slicer, which we use mainly as a bread knife, and I sharpened it with this method. It cuts very well now, and I have not had to resharpen it for almost a year now. I did the same on a shorter serrated utility knife, which we use as a sandwich/bagel knife, same result.
I dislike serrated blades and use them as little as possible, mainly for bread.
It is very satisfying to purchase dull, but well made knives, and bring them back to functional condition.
Mon Apr 07, 2014 9:37 am
DMT also makes a hand tool for serrated edges. It is kind of a conical diamond steel, http://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/fold ... -serrated/
I have used it on pocket knives with good success. Don't have any serrated kitchen knives.
Mon Apr 07, 2014 4:10 pm
I found the best thing for me, to get at individual serrations, is sandpaper and the edge of one of those triangular three sided rulers. It gives me an edge just thin enough to tackle pretty much any serrations and depending on how tight you pull the sandpaper around it you can change the the size of the curve to match.