Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:55 pm
I have stumbled onto your website and the wonderful videos that you have produced on knife sharpening and the use/art of sharpening with water stones. I must admit that my interest is not with culinary knives but rather with my bushcraft knife that is made with O-1 steel, Spyderco, Bushcraft. I have a couple of questions.
Would you still suggest your 4-pc starter set for this knife?
Can you still purchase the 140 Grit diamond flattening plate?
Can you purchase the Suehiro Rika 5K without the base?
Would the Rock Hard Deburring Felt Block still work with this knife? It has a Scandinavian edge?
Would you recommend finishing with a strop?
I have really enjoyed your videos and am looking forward to hearing back from you.
Who knows, if all goes well maybe my wife will let me sharpen her kitchen knives..
all the best..
Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:59 pm
Yes the set will work on a wide variety of knives.
We are out of the cheap plate but we have others such as the DMT XXC which is what I use. It's more money but it's dead flat and lasts longer.
Yes we offer the Rika without the base. Just put a note in the comments box and I'll switch it for you.
We're out of the deburring block until early next week. It works on just about anything I've tried it on.
I strop my knives to even out the sectioning method of sharpening I use. It's not necessary and you can strop right on the Rika if you want.
Good luck and let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:41 pm
I would like to recommend a set I have yet to convince Mark he needs to offer
Naniwa Omura 150
For a steel like O-1 a Boron carbide or Chromium oxide compound would excel for finishing though I personally prefer to use a bare strop.
The stones I recommended above would work very well to sharpen the larger bevel of a scandi blade. He's welcome to contact me for sharpen in which I could also make a video showing the effectiveness of the stones.... Just a thought.
Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:10 pm
Thanks for posting my question(s). I look forward to any responses, thanks JasonB. I will look into the stones that you recommended.
Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:23 pm
What are you going to be doing with the knife?
Fri Sep 14, 2012 5:20 pm
I am using the knife for general camping and learning basic bushcraft skills, feather sticks, batonig etc.
Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:59 pm
Neither mark or eamon will do you wrong another suggestion and it might save u some money unfortunately mark does not sell this brand even though I want mark to make the money I am here just to advise and help norton makes a great combo set. Basically your buying 4 stones but only two come one is a course/medium and the final is 4k/8k just switch sides they were the cats meow several years ago and the stones have become better since than but I still use my 8k it is still a hard stone to beat. Any of these suggestions will work. Just depends on how much money you have to spend and commitment you want to make. Peace jmbullman
Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:25 pm
Since it is scandi ground, you will have to do one of two things:
1. Buy sandpaper and maintain it with a soft backing(mousepad trick), because it will be convexed evenly from shoulder to edge. This is a great solution if you like to sharpen in the woods, because it weighs very little, it will thin the knife as a natural extension of sharpening, and is how the knife is already made. That said, you will have to keep buying sandpaper and it takes a long time to sharpen like this. Also, I never really understood why people want to carry sharpening stuff with them--nobody lives in the bush, and if your field knife won't last a week of use or your skinner won't get through a single animal without failing, you need to either sharpen it better or buy a better knife! O-1, if properly heat treated, will do just fine without touchups, unless you are just honing the knife for fun(which is a legitimate activity).
2. Buy stones, and re-shape the edge to be maintained on stones. It will need to be flat, unless you want to take the time to learn to sharpen a proper convex on stones, which is not easy(and you will need someone else to re-shape the bevel for you). If you flatten it, it will cut differently. I'm mulling over the idea and trying to determine if that is going to be a good idea with the lower-rockwell 0-1 for purposes of batoning and carving feather sticks. A convex edge feels really nice doing stuff like that.
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