Thu Mar 27, 2014 4:25 pm
Hello I just received a misono ux10 guyoto from you. The knife has a decent factory edge on it but I really want to sharpen it to bring it to its full potential. I was just wondering if I could effectively sharpen this knife on a tri oil stone. I have a lot of experience sharpening softer steel knives but I have heard a lot of stories about the hard metal chipping if sharpened or honed on something too rough. I have very fine oil stones and just wanted to know if I could safely take this knife to them without destroying it. Also between sharpening is it ok to use a steel on it or is there any other method of maintaining the edge since I am using this knife professionally. Thank you
Thu Mar 27, 2014 5:00 pm
Oil stone's should work on the UX10....albeit slowly. You won't damage the knife simply because you're trying to sharpen on the oil stone's. Waterstone's for most of us are preferred though.
With a steel, I personally wouldn't. The UX10 isn't a super hard steel and won't react terribly to a gentle steeling.....but there are better ways and products.
For instance, if you want to use a honing rod, I'd get the Idahone or similar:http://www.chefknivestogo.com/id12cerodwna.html
I don't know what steel you own, but if it's the typical coarse steel then the Idahone is finer and less harsh on your knife. Be easy with your strokes using either rod with as little lateral pressure as possible.
Thu Mar 27, 2014 5:14 pm
I wouldn't scratch up a perfectly good factory edge with oil stones. I think the Idahone rod and Green brick stone would produce the most serviceable edges with lasting effects in professional environment.
Yes for the love of god do not bang on your steel like most idiotic line cooks do. Even pro chefs believe banging on a steel sharpens the knife. It doesn't. It aligns the teeth of the edge. But if you bang on the steel you basically are rolling the edge...flipping burgers...hee hehehe I mean flipping burrs.
Lightly steel the knife. A few swipes per side.
Thu Mar 27, 2014 6:53 pm
I asked this question. I want to sharpen it because the factory edge isn't on par even with my wustofs I have sharpened myself. As for the steel I know it doesnt sharpen it, I'm a CIA grad so im not going to do anything stupid (not saying CIA grads don't do stupid stuff) but I know my way around the equipment. This is just my first Japanese knife and I want some advice on how to maintain a scary sharp edge without dropping and more money on it right now. I'm not worried about keeping the knife shiny and pretty I'm worried about keeping it as effective as I can n
Thu Mar 27, 2014 7:35 pm
I am new to the world of Japanese knives as well and have an oil stone, it works and can get them sharp, I have a feeling that they are capable of an edge far beyond what they can produce so ill be picking up a green brick and a 6k stone, I havent noticed any damage from using them, though.
Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:23 pm
The oil stones should be fine. Because oil stones themselves do not abrade, the surface of the stone tends to load up with swarf and the aggregate will dull. Water stones are preferred because the stone surface wears away so you always have new, sharp aggregate exposed. Using an oil stone is not inherently bad for a Japanese knife, it just may take more time.
As far as steeling, since Japanese cutlery is often hardened to a higher hardness than a Wusthof, they are more prone to chipping. A coarse sharpening steel applies pressure to a very small point on the blade, that concentrated force can chip the blade, even if only on a small level. For a cheap/free alternative, consider stropping on newsprint or correlated cardboard. Since the force is more distributed, the edge is better protected from chipping. The inclusions in the paper products act as abrasives and lightly polish the edge.
This might give you enough tools to work with what you have. Hope this helps
Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:08 pm
Go ahead and use the oil stones go slow and try to use the even spots on the stone or you'll get a little uneven waviness. At some point you should get a waterstone. Maybe a fellow forum member could sell you a used one very cheaply. Surely somebody has a few stones to donate or sell at a reduced cost.
The X10 ought to tune up just fine. Let us know how the oil stone treatment goes. I'm sure it will be good. You could get a wood block and use some very fine sand paper temporarily. It's not ideal, but it's cheaper than buying a 50$ stone.
Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:44 pm
Awesome thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll touch it up on the oil stones tomorrow and post how it goes. I'll definitely try put the stropping on the newsprint too. Also if anyone has some water stones or anything they would be willing to sell me to try out just give me a price. I love spending time on my knives and take pride in their effectiveness, glad cktg gave me a similar minded community along with my nice new cutlery.
Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:10 pm
My Misonos came out of the box with overly convexed edges. If you use the sharpie trick you will see that you have to raise the spine a lot to reach the very edge.
Sun Mar 30, 2014 3:51 am
So I touched up the knife on the oil stone. Took about an hour to get it where I wanted. The edges were very convexed so I slimmed them down. The knife is scary sharp now. Shaves hair with just the weight of the knife. I am going to need finer grit stones though the edge has a steamy mirror polish and I want a perfect mirror. Any suggestions on a fruit thats a good jump from a 3000 grit stone? Also good news I managed not to scratch the hell out of the sides of the knife.
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