Sun May 27, 2012 5:05 pm
Review:The Shapton Pro 5000 grit stone is a light, compact, and easy to carry high quality "splash and go" sharpening stone that comes in a in a protective case. It works great in combination with the Shapton Pro 1,000 or 1,5000 grit stones. You can use it for minor edge repair and to maintain a sharp edge. When combined with the Shapton Pro 1,000 grit stone, it is a fantastic "one-two" punch portable sharpening solution for knife kits. A perfect addition to knife kits for culinary students and chefs alike.
Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:54 am
How would you incorporate a steel or diamond cut steel into this process?
Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:28 pm
Sharpening rods are used for maintenance between sharpening mostly. A few quick swipes on a rod will allign the edge back to straight.
Stropping performs the same function but uses leather or balsa.
Diamond and to a lesser extent ceramic rods no only allign the edge but they also grind steel so some people will use these in place of a sharpening stone to sharpen their knives. While this method works it doesn't work as well as stones mostly because the edge produced is not very fine and it's more difficult to do an accurate job on a diamond steel.
Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:27 pm
Thanks, I knew that the Diamond Steel was not a primary source of sharpening, I just wanted to know how well it stands up to the stone. Also, what is the difference between a leather or balsa? I don't know what a balsa is at all.
Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:19 am
Balsa is a very soft light type of wood. For stropping, a board or block of balsa is used like a belt or band of leather. Frankly, I wrote the above review, and although I use honing rods, I find myself using the Shapton Pros more and more. They are so convenient! And the Shapton Pro 30,000 grit can be used as a strop that has a .5 micron diamond spray. In the long run, the Shapton 30K saves you money and is a breeze to use.
Sun Jun 17, 2012 3:21 am
Shapton 30k is as bad ass as it gets in most cases except for us OCD people you don't even have to do much more than strop, but being a perfectionist I give it the works. Peace jmbullman
Sun Jun 17, 2012 3:40 am
I strop too, but use the Shapton 30,000 grit for stropping so I can save my money for sprays below 0.49 micron, and strop on bare leather as a final strop. The Shapton 30K pays for itself fairly quickly when you eliminate spray or paste down to 0.5 micron.
Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:11 am
True but some knives including straight razors have problems with the edge on a 30,000 stone of you sharpen on them but stropping on them makes sense if you are trying to save money for sprays and etc. I have become a lover of cbn lately and it is pricey, if you sharpen no strop a carbon dovo razor on 30,000 and than strop the edge fades rather fast I learned for some of the razor gurus to stop at 15k and strop from there but I have been useing so many naturals lately and enjoying that natural bite I have just been stropping on leather or roo and I love the feeling. But for the most part ur point is very valid sir. Peace jmbullman
Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:50 am
I agree that Japanese natural stones have a distinct feel that is quite different than a Shapton Pro or Shapton Glass 30,000 grit. But at that point, you are comparing apples with oranges. One thing that is universally agreed upon, however, is that you need to strop after sharpening. Mark Richmond and I are experimenting with a strop made of genuine cordovan leather, and so far, results exceed expectation, especially as a final step in stropping.
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