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Shapton 120 question

Sun May 12, 2013 9:45 am

I have a Shapton 120 grit that I use for reshaping and a Shapton 1000. when I first bought the 120 it worked very well and cut very fast, but now it has slowed down to be closer to my 1000 grit maybe what I would expect from a 500 grit. I flatten both with an Atoma 140 grit. any suggestions to get better performance from the 120? BTW I noticed that the 120 does work a lot better with a lot of slurry on it when the slurry has the correct hydration level.


Re: Shapton 120 question

Sun May 12, 2013 9:48 am

Hi Robert,

My guess is that your stone has loaded and your atoma is not flattening the stone enough to clean our the metal particle build up so it is not working properly anymore. In general if you try and flatten with a higher plate or equal grit you just wear out the plate and you don't flatten the intended stone.

Try using a 320 shapton and flatten with your atoma. That should be a better combination.

Re: Shapton 120 question

Sun May 12, 2013 6:25 pm

120 Pro or Glass?

Use the 140 Atoma for the rougher stuff and use the 120 to remove some scratches from the Atoma 140 rather than reprofiling itself.

If you want to make the 120 surface even more aggressive than the 140 Atoma finish on the 120 Shaptons, get the 60 or 24 grit Nubatama stone and use it to texturize the 120 Pro surface. Shapton stones at the low grit benefit a lot from getting the surface roughed up on a coarser stone.

The 24 grit (Aratae) Nubatama is the roughest thing out there. Followed by the 60 grit Nubatama Ume 60 grit.

The Atoma 140 plate will work fine on the 120 Pro stones, but flattening 120 stones on 'lesser' plates will eat them up pretty quickly.

And yes leaving the mud on the stone, even a Shapton Pro or GS will make it more aggressive.



Re: Shapton 120 question

Mon May 13, 2013 7:31 am

I'm assuming 120 Pro:

Take the 120 to your concrete sidewalk, grind the piss out of it to get that "loaded" stuff off. Then reflatten with the plate.
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