Drilldeep wrote:Thanks for the input. I may have started this incorrectly with the budget numbers...that is not the issue. I have. I have no desire to buy one knife that is amazing and then the rest of my kit goes downhill from there. I am also not implying that I am only interested in blowing money to have cool looking knives. If there is a blade out there for five bucks that is laser sharp and holds an edge I'm all for that. The way I came up with that number was the fact I had personally narrowed my search down and one of my picks was the Takedas....and the 240 Gyuto goes for less than the 400 mark...and so does eh rest of the blades I am looking for.
As far as more info, reactivity might be an issue as the wife is not as meticulous as I am and that could cause some unwanted accidental forced patina.
I prefer a stiff blade and I am probably most accurately described as a pusher. My go to knives are currently my chefs knife, paring knife, and santoku. My santoku is my beater and gets used for the ugly stuff.
Sharp out of the box is somewhat important because I feel it shows that the creator took the time to finish his product and put his best piece on the table. Not a deal breaker personally however.
Hope this provides some more insight. Thanks again for the help!
The knife afficianados that hang out in places like this live in a strange world. I would say that most of the knives that go for $100 and up are of high quality. Yes, you can spend more, and in general, you tend to get a knife that is generally "better" in some way when spending more money. But there are some aspects that come down to personal preference, so one person's "better" may be quite different than another's. Of course, up to you in terms of whether you want to spend more or less or each piece. Some people are quite happy with their $100 knives, and don't see the value of spending more. Others will spend 200, 400, 1000, etc. Perceived value is quite personal.
For clarification, the main concern of delayed care of a carbon knife is rust, rather than patina. A patina (whether forced or natural) can always be removed fairly easily with Flitz or similar products. It's rust that is the main worry. If you and your wife choose carbon, it's important to understand the attention it needs. To paraphrase BDL, it's not difficult care, but it needs to be completed consistently within a narrow time frame.
I agree with Adam that OOTB sharpness, in the long run, may not mean all that much.