Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:57 pm
I usually leave 1/8-1/4" around the blade for safety, don't want someone able to slice or poke thru the spacer too easily! It also sucks when you are shaping the profile out and cut thru the spacer, too. Did that on one of my earlier saya's!
Sun Mar 24, 2013 1:29 am
Cool! Great looking saya. and nice WIP photos.
Sun Mar 24, 2013 2:19 am
Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:32 pm
You do great work, your prices are very fair, and you get it done quickly. Great combo. Sending out the knife for a saya on Tuesday.
Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:16 pm
Thanks! I will let you know when it arrives!
Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:17 am
taz575 wrote: Step One: Trace blade/handle onto the spacer piece. I size the spacer to fit pretty close to the spine thickness in front of the handle
Thanks Taz575. I hope you don't mind my bringing this post out of the archives.
So here is a question from a complete woodworking newbie wanting to make a saya. I was wondering if you (or others) taper the spacer so it thins toward the blade edge for a snug fit. I know some sayas do not need the pin, because they are sufficiently tight as is. But I don't know how this would be done. Maybe it's entirely friction on the spine of the knife?
Sat Aug 16, 2014 11:37 pm
You can do that, but I don't. When you epoxy and clamp, some epoxy oozes out and makes the inside a little tighter than it was before. I try to get the spacer close to the tang thickness of the knife, or file the inside of the outer panels to clear a tang if it gets really fat quickly. I did a saya one time and shipped it with the knife in it to the customer. The saya wood swelled up a bit and the customer had a very difficult time getting the knife out, so you gotta be careful of that issue, too. I try to drill the pin hole so the blade has less than 1/8" of movement before the choil area hits the pin. Most are a little closer. I use 3/32" thick and 1/8" thick basswood spacers on the majority of knives I do saya's for. Some thicker ones get 3/16" thick spacers, but those are much rarer. I would rather have the friction on the spine area personally. The tapered 2 piece saya's look really cool, but I don't have the chisels to do a clean job with the cavity and the 3 layer is very quick for me.
Fri Jun 19, 2015 1:24 pm
Tim, great thread, very helpful. I've looked at it numerous times.
I'm getting ready to try making some of my own sayas, and have a couple questions:
1. How thick are the outside pieces? I have some 1/4 wood, but yours appear a bit thinner.
2. What's your source for pins?
3. I saw a similar WIP where the person glues the liner to one side first, and then drills the hole for the pin. Seems like this might be the best way to get the best fit, especially for a rookie. Any thoughts on that?
Fri Jun 19, 2015 5:20 pm
I use 1/8" thick pieces of wood for the outer panels and basswood in the thickness that is equal to or just a hair thicker than the thickest part of the knife, usually at the spine. Pins, I usually Guitar Bridge pin; I get them from Grizzly Industrial and there is also a tapered reamer to taper the holes to the pin itself.
You can drill the pin hole that way. What I do is insert the knife into the saya, look to see how the handle fits against the saya, remove the knife and put it on top of the saya to match up how the handle looked, and then mark where the pin can go. When I drill, I use the basswood spacer (now in the shape of the blade) inserted inside the saya to act as a spacer so the hole doesn't blow out and chip as much when drilling. I also use the same basswood spacer when I sand since the 1/8" thick wood panel do flex and sometimes don't get sanded properly. The spacer inserted partway into the saya acts to take up the space so the wood can flex and sands easier and more evenly.
Fri Jun 19, 2015 10:57 pm
Tim, thanks for the fast and helpful response to my questions. As well as the other very helpful ideas!
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