Sat Dec 07, 2013 2:42 am
I have Fujiwara nashiji petty and I'm diligent about drying when I put it away but I think there may be a little bit of rust on the edge. What is the best way to remedy this? Sometimes I go a week or so without using it should I be oiling this when putting it away?
Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:06 am
If you live somewhere humid it probably wouldn't hurt to oil it before a week's hiatus.
To clean off the rust that is there (as well as any patina!) use Bar Keeper's Friend. If you don't have it you can usually find it by the powdered cleaners (Like Ajax, Comet, or Bon Ami) in a local store. There are also rust erasers available on CKtG and steel wool will work as well. Just if you go the steel wool route use a fine one so it doesn't leave awful scratches.
Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:52 pm
If it is just the edge, resharpen it. Then if this recurrs, dry off THOROUGHLY and then put some oil on it if necessary (mineral or something that won't go rancid). I use microfiber towels for this thorough drying otherwise the water gets trapped under the oil.
Sun Dec 08, 2013 4:34 am
Ken has a good point... don't use olive oil or some other food based oil. lol They can get smelly when they go rancid. Mineral oil is fairly cheap, food safe, and will never go rancid. It's also great for use on cutting boards and unfinished wood handles.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:49 pm
Bar keepers friend will take most patina and rust off carbon. I don't believe the oxalic acid solution in that product is strong enough to do any etching or real damage. It's pretty effective. A light oxidization might just need to be wiped clean. Sharpening it off might not be completely necessary.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:15 pm
Umberto wrote:Bar keepers friend will take most patina and rust off carbon. I don't believe the oxalic acid solution in that product is strong enough to do any etching or real damage. It's pretty effective.
Yeah, it does no harm just washing with it, but it WILL cause staining and pitting even on stainless if left to sit on it or if the knife soaks in it too long. A simple wash, rinse, and dry is perfectly safe and has never caused me any issues.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:24 pm
I usually make a paste of it in a cup of water...Rub it on and then scrub with a nylon scratchy dish sponge. The carbon black patina remains but the steel becomes shiny again. Bark Keepers friend works food for polishing most metal bits but is most likely to pit and stain aluminum if left on too long. It's more forgiving with steel.
A quick rub of the paste works wonders on old carbon. The heavy patina stays but the rest is polished purdy.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:14 pm
lol, sounds like you use it like I do for any rust spots. The paste works great for that.
I have had it stain a stainless pot lid which is why I warn against letting it sit on the metal. Nothing terrible, but I have never been able to polish it out.
Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:21 pm
There's a new cleaning product available in the continental US called Diamond Magic. It's produced in Hawaii. I've used it for 10 years on all sorts of stainless, brass, aluminum, & glass, and it is an awsome cleaner. It's also NSF approved for food service use. Check out the website: http://www.diamondmagiccontinentalusa.com
. This will remove the rust without damaging the blade....but it contains no waxes or coating materials, so you still need to dry and oil the knife.
Thu Dec 12, 2013 3:21 am
Diamond Magic huh? How long before somebody says "strop"?
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