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We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
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Re: Richmond Laser Aogami Super

Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:50 pm

I should be cutting some more 150 Bamboos this weekend to send to Mark. PM me if you just can't wait.

Rick - good answer! Thanks for 'stepping up to the plate' :)

Raibeaux - two days on any stone is way too much - especially on a soft knife like this. With an Atoma 140 + 150 Bamboo this task should be measured in single digit minutes, not hours.

If you've gone a bit more acute then the steel will hold - like 15 on this knife, just switch to a coarser angle like 20 degrees. You don't have to convert the entire bevel to 20 degrees - just put a small microbevel ar 20 degrees on the existing edge. This isn't a knife that will hold an edge for a long time anyhow so over time you will convert the bevel to 20 degrees. A bit of thinning behind the 20 degree angle will just make it cut better.

Try to square up the bevels on the 2 sides to be equal, but before that try cutting with the knife. If it cuts straight enough for you without twisting or steering the blade - don't worry about it.

I use the sharpie and a FINE grit stone for angle testing. Typically I use an old 8k Glass stone that I dropped for this. Just a swipe or two will remove the sharpie and let you know where you are - and this much grinding can easily be swept away once you have decided on your angles.

I try to generate as little burr as possible. Note that when you put a microbevel on an edge that is close to generating burr, you essentially force a burr in a couple of strokes. I can go into that comment a bit more if it doesn't make sense. When you are doing this microbevel at 20 degrees you shouldn't have to use a very coarse stone.


Re: Richmond Laser Aogami Super

Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:42 am

About the burr...I did a little work on this knife last night. The EP is set at 20. A couple of more questions. How much burr do you need, and how prominent should it be? I used the EP 400 and what I got was simply one side slightly rougher (burr?) than the other. If I drag three fingers across the blade, one side is smooth and the other feels rougher, but not by a lot. It does have that feel the entire length. I think I'm used to the burr I get on the Chef's Choice, which is very prominent. Is this enough burr or should I keep going with the 400 until it's more prominent? I seems as if I've hit some kind of plateau or something where the thing pretty much stays the same.
Also, when a burr does develop, should it be removed before going to the next stone or just switch stones and start using it? If just switching to next stone, should I start the process on the burr side or does it matter.

I appreciate all the help and I vow on my widescreen TV that I will learn this.
After I do, I plan on using this knife as a wall decoration. Maybe entitle it "Remember This?".

Re: Richmond Laser Aogami Super

Fri Mar 15, 2013 11:49 am

You got the burr, and that is enough burr. Proceed.

Re: Richmond Laser Aogami Super

Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:09 pm

Hey, all, and thanks for the answers and information. I appreciate it.
I'll call CKTG Monday and see if they're in. Going to buy the Atoma 140, Nubatama 150 and an extra Edge Pro 400 to soon replace the one I just ate up.

My next search is for a thin petty for paper-thin slices of items such as garlic cloves, strawberries, etc. etc. Suggestions welcome. I've been leaning toward this one http://www.chefknivestogo.com/hapakn.html

Or this one: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/satadape150.html

Started using my new knives the last few days, the Artifex 210 gyuto and the Kikuichi TKC 240. I really think I closed my eyes (flinch) first time I cut with the Kikuichi. It really is different using these knives.

Thanks again for all your help, folks. Stay tuned, I finished the Forschner through the 2000 tapes and will start another project tomorrow. I'm saving the Washington Forge stainless knife for later until after I get the Atoma and Nubatama. Commercial Chef's Choice even has trouble with this thing. I also found a few old carbon knives hiding in a closet.

Re: Richmond Laser Aogami Super

Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:33 pm

Well...? How did it turn out? Did you end up with the 15/20 combo platter? Tell me it's at least sharp.

It seems some knives, such as the one you just finished and my Gerbers, are really abrasion resistant, yet still not hard enough to hold an edge for long. Abrasion resistance and hardness seem to be independent variables.

Re: Richmond Laser Aogami Super

Sun Mar 17, 2013 10:25 am

Hey, Tall, what's up? It turned out very sharp at 20 degrees. I think I spent too much time at 15, though. I have another Forschner, this one new, I'm gonna sharpen today. I'm going to try to learn the Sharpie trick this time, but I'll end up sharpening at 20 regardless. I think the Sharpie thing will let me see what the knife was originally sharpened at, isn't that right?
I also think I am still using too much pressure and not paying enough attention to where the strokes are located. Meaning I think I'm overlapping the same areas too much. But I'm beginning to get it. Still not gonna mess with my Kikuichi, though. Maybe later (much later) I'll go for the Artifex.
Thanks for your interest..big help from you and everyone.
Well, back to the salt mines.

Re: Richmond Laser Aogami Super

Sun Mar 17, 2013 1:25 pm

I think one of the hardest things for me to learn with the EP was to stay relaxed but firm with my grip on the knife handle, and the next hardest was to NOT apply a lot of pressure to the edge on the blade with my stone hand. At first I would catch myself really reefing down on it.

You might try some practice sharpening holding the stone arm knob with just your thumb and forefinger. While mostly you'll be applying too little pressure this way it's a good way to tune yourself into using less in general. Make sense?

I try to keep in mind that "less is more" when sharpening with my EP.
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