Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:32 pm
First of all. I am an amateur in free hand knife sharpening.
I have a cheap knife I try everything on. Today I tried to sharpen on the secondary bevel. It seem that I have missed it a little since I end up making scratches over the whole blade.
What is the best way of removing scratches?
Sand paper or a very fine grit stone?
Mon Mar 11, 2013 1:34 pm
I like to use the gray ScotchBrite pad first....it's usually a close approximation of the finish left on most factory knives.http://www.totalindustrialsupply.com/Pr ... lick=80157
If you order them, and since they're so cheap, get several flavors.
Tue Mar 12, 2013 2:24 am
Any particular progression of scotch brite pads? I didn't even know they came in different flavors
I've done some SERIOUS scuffing of my 'practice' blades and was wondering the same thing. I saw on another post somewhere (green brick maybe?) about collecting the runoff from the stone on paper and using that.
Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:20 am
Thank you for the answer. I live i Norway so it is probably to expensive to order it from the US. But I hope that I can find the same product in Norway:)
Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:25 am
This is how my training knife looks like:)
Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:31 am
if it's a san mai / clad knife. a green scotchbrite pad will work. unless you want it shiny.
Tue Mar 12, 2013 1:24 pm
Chris, no particular order of progression. I typically start with the gray....if it doesn't work I go coarser. The gray is about as fine as they come if I remember right. There are a ton of ways to remove the scratches....this is my preferred method to recommend. Me....I take them to the grinder with the ScotchBrite belt and I refinish the entire knife in about 2 minutes.
norway....if you can't find these pads, try sandpaper....start with 220 grit and have a firm but not stuff backing.....hard rubber works good.
Tue Mar 12, 2013 1:57 pm
This is what I plan on trying, this comes up quite a bit actually:
I have used a progession of wet/dry sandpaper from 320 up to 2k and it works well.
What the problem is the blade often only has one scratch that the owner finds distracting and wants gone. Well you can't just remove that one scratch without the need to work on the entire blade and on both sides.
I have a scratched blade that I plan to to work with the wet/dry and then when I have done all I can, I'm going to use a buffer with some polishing compound on the felt wheel to finish it up.
I have not taken this step yet but it seems logical that it would work nicely. (Don't have a buffer yet but they are relatively inexpensive, unless someone advises otherwise, I'll pick it up shortly.
What's the worst thing that could happen besides the blade spinning uncontrollably out of my hand as it makes contact with the wheel?
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