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Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Thu Sep 20, 2012 4:54 pm

Hmmm.. does it make you feel like the knife is skating around at all?

For me it's like this (On synthetic coarse stones): Slurry with little pressure feels like crap. Slurry with a lot of pressure cuts faster, but not give you a refined edge. So, work up slurry with diamond plate, leave slurry on stone, sharpen with heavy pressure until burr, then clean stone off and finish on a clean stone with lighter strokes. Just always seems to take the guesswork out of whether the stone is loading or whatever factors, and gives you a nice rough stone surface while maintaining flatness each time you sharpen. I don't like using diamonds on my knives (except for stropping) so I use the diamond plate strictly for raising a slurry on the 120. Cuts lightning fast on just about anything. I personally feel like the diamond plates will last longer if you only use them for flattening, but this is kind of a "whatever" issue I guess.

For higher grits I don't use a slurry. AKA anything past 1k never has a slurry worked up beforehand. And that's how I roll. :D

Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:07 pm

I should say that as I was reading these posts yesterday, I didn't realize that there were two different lines of Shaptons that were being talked about, the pro and the glass.

I'm not sure which line these latest posts are referring to. It's also confusing to me whether you need to (or should) work up a slurry with a DMT XXC plate on the pro and/or the glass stones.

Anyway, for those of you who continue to post, I ask that you specify pro or glass, and I welcome recommendations of one over the other.

Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:54 pm

For all my posts I refer to the Glass stones. The only Pro I own is the Yellow 15K, great stone.

The main difference between Glass and Pro is that Glass cuts slightly faster from what I hear, but the pros are slightly thicker.

Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Fri Sep 21, 2012 6:23 am

The Pros are way thicker. They also to not behave consistently from one grit to the next--they are made to sharpen woodworking tools in a series, and some grits are best for carbon, and others for stainless.

The glass stones are similar to one another, except in grit, and very thin. They also don't come with those sweet Shapton base-boxes(I still use my very first one).

Shaun, when my GS gets a mud built up on it, even if it is just slurry, it turns into this pasty swarf/mud mix and blocks up the stone. It gets slippery and stops cutting at all. If I clean the stone off constantly, I'll spend 5 minutes on it. If I try to sharpen on that mud, I'll never get anywhere.

Oh and yes, a diamond plate will last way longer if you only flatten stones with it. My Atoma isn't a year old and it's getting dull. I use it a lot.

Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Fri Sep 21, 2012 4:49 pm

Okay, so I'm finish sharpening two 52100 ultimatums right now and on the 500 as we speak.

I started 120 with slurry, then 320 with no slurry. Here's my observations while taking this conversation into consideration:

The 120 and 220, still without a doubt (IMO) :) , are better with slurry raised first. The 320 is where the transition takes place. The 320 Glass Stone (I can't speak for the Pro) seems to be a cross between the regular formulation of the 500, 1000, 2... etc and the 2 coarse stones that are different: 120 and 220. The 120 and 220 have a different color, the abrasive releases differently. The 320 has a bit of the feeling of the 120 and 220, but is the same (or near) color as the 500 and on. This means the 320 works great with or without slurry raised first, and is a very aggressive stone. It just might be my favorite of the sub-1000 grit stones. BUT, a 220 with slurry raised will indeed cut faster, as will 120.

Now, as I went from 320 to 500, yes, I believe there must be a very small formula jump or something here, because these 2 stones behave a bit different.. and slightly similar at the same time. They are both hard and don't dish, they both cut any kind of steel you put them up against, and both are acceptable pre-stones for a 1k jump afterwards. When the 500 gets some swarf it seems to lose cutting power a little faster, whereas the 320 almost doesn't care if there's swarf on the stone, it still keeps ripping steel off your knife. The 500 with a slurry still seems to cut better for me, but not a lot, and it does cause a bit of the "skating" effect as I like to call it. Eamon, I'd love to lend you my 320, but then I'd have to buy another one in the meantime. :D

Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Fri Sep 21, 2012 6:47 pm

...stop over thinking it guys.......

:(

Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:37 pm

Stop raining on everything and I'll stop over-thinking things. :D

Oh, and BTW, I stand by my statements.

Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:58 pm

Interesting. Do you do the sweeping thing? I think I saw a video of you, but my memory is unreliable. It might be different because we are sharpening totally differently.

Re: Question for Shaun and newsletter.

Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:51 pm

About to head out for a minute, but in short, I like to scrub a little more now, and do sweeps to finish. If I'm just "refreshing" a blade like in that video, then sometimes I might only do sweeps.
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