We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:59 pm
On the forschner I'd go 20 per side give or take. 18-22 should work well.
Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:06 pm
You didn't botch anything. It's a piece of metal and you can shape it however you want. Don't worry about wrecking a knife because if things look truly dire there's always the garbage can. With your learning trajectory you will be heat treating your own steel in a year or two.
Personally, I would go back to the 15 degrees and pretty it up, then put on the 20 degree final bevel. That's likely your best compromise between sharp and edge holding. With the various angles you've been working you will want to use the sharpie to make sure you're catching everything down to the bitter edge. Use the stop collar to compensate for varying stone thicknesses. I would back that up with the angle cube. As an aside, I have found that even with flattened stones the angle cube measurement varies slightly (~0.5 degree) across the face of the stone. Perhaps due to flex within the arm system. I use the angle cube at the same arm position for each measurement.
Ben Dale warns about that dishing on German knives. Don't know if it's a geometry issue or a human instinct issue. Being aware of it is half the battle.
Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:25 am
Yes, you MUST adjust the angle for each stone even if the thickness is minutely different from stone to stone, otherwise you are not making the same edge contact with each stone - this is VERY IMPORTANT in the process of a good edge.
Mon Mar 11, 2013 3:19 pm
First of all, MR's suggested method flat out works regarding adjusting for stone thickness. Use it for sure.
Use should use your DMT to properly flatten your dished stones, or you won't get the results you're looking for.
Regarding your angles, unless you're a gentle user who doesn't make much contact with a cutting board, 17 degree may be a little steep, but you should have been able to easily generate a burr going from 15 to 17. You've only changed the angle, not the stone.
If you've already thinned the blade to 15 degrees, you should now be able to go to 20 degrees without starting over ,unless you somehow really trashed the blade.
Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:31 pm
If you zero out the angle cube on the knife in the sharpening position on the table? then set your knife angle on the blade with the angle cube..what is the true angle on the knife?..
Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:54 pm
What you described IS the true angle of the edge bevel you are trying to create. By zeroing the cube on the blade face you are nulling out the bevel of the knife.
Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:21 am
Correct - this works well with a full flat ground blade.
Beware however if the blade has a decent convex grind - this makes the application of the angle cube on the blade a bit tricky.
Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:22 pm
To Raibeaux. I think I first commented to MR about measuring the angle with the knife on the table. Although I still set the angle on first time customer knives with the knife on the table, I now keep a log book as MR suggests to account for the adjustment to the angle with the knife of the table for my personal knives and repeat customers. His suggestion is much faster and safer.
Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:06 pm
Agreed, it is NOT 100% correct, but for "similar" shaped knifes, will be within a 0.25 degree deviation.
Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:52 am
I've been looking for this post as I wanted to say thanks again for the help. I'll report back in the near future on my progress, if you guys don't mind.
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