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 Post subject: Re: Puzzled!
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:39 pm 
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Posts: 4219
Good pictures Taz, Very educational!



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 Post subject: Re: Puzzled!
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 3:42 am 
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Posts: 1421
A picture is worth 1k words. Nice 2k explanation! I can't imagine showing this any clearer!

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Ken



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 Post subject: Re: Puzzled!
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:10 am 

Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:10 pm
Posts: 7
alright my knife definitely resembles the first picture. any sharpening/technique tips for going from picture one to picture two?


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 Post subject: Re: Puzzled!
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:23 am 
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I used a Rotary Platen on my variable speed belt sander, so it's cheating a bit :) I slack belt the edge portion and then put in a small edge sharpening bevel or micro bevel type of an edge.

To get from one to the other by stones, you need to remove that sharp transition between the blade bevel and edge bevel. Start with the blade bevel (main blade grind) flat on the stone and lift the spine a little. This will get you on to that point. Start abrading away the steel. Now you should have your main blade grind or bevel, the new bevel (call it thinning bevel) you just made and then the edge sharpening bevel. You pretty much keep working the new thinning bevel down closer to the edge bevel and kinda blend the two together, or bring the thinning bevel down to the edge completely and then add back in a sharpening edge bevel. When people thin, they are usually thinning 3/16"-1/4" up the blade from the edge upwards to give you an idea. You aren't trying to thin the whole blade out, but the area where the blade grind and sharpening bevel meet up and reduce that sharp point there.


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 Post subject: Re: Puzzled!
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 4:30 pm 

Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:10 pm
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has anyone used chad ward's book/method for compound bevels? would this be appropriate? (says to put an initial 10 degree bevel to thin and then a 15 degree bevel on top of that as the primary edge) most of my knives are tojiros at this point so they are pretty thin to begin with. i think after 6 months of sharpening on each of them i notice a lot of wedging and increased time to sharpen them. so im assuming the shoulder is chunky and needs to get thinned like everyone is saying (need to work on getting the burr off better too).


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 Post subject: Re: Puzzled!
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 2:04 pm 
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I do use a micro-bevel (essentially what Chad is describing in the book) on some knives that are very thin. Typically it's because I've thinned them too much and the edge is failing though. Which this is essentially what Chad is trying to accomplish....a very thin shoulder and a strong edge. It works well, but I don't do it on every knife.



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