We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:13 am
I'm in free fall down the rabbit hole at this point.
I have decided I am going to get a Pro model.
MadRookie a question for you. I love the rod end mod you did on yours. I'm wondering how you deal with losing the offset toward the center of the stock pivot? Do you see any effect that you must compensate for? If so how do you compensate for the offset?
Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:21 pm
I think you made the right decision to go right to the Pro Model. I am a firm believer of cry once and buy the best out of the gate.
The Pro Model is worth the extra money if you want more adjustment for the angle and the better base.
At the end of the day you will get the same result in sharp blades, but I really enjoy the Pro Model.
Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:38 pm
But I already have an Apex so this is living and learning upgrading to a Pro.
Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:48 am
I need some help re. this topic. My main use for EdgePro will be thinning ... but not extreme. Primary edge range should stay in a conventional 13dps to 25dps. Can I thin behind the edge at 13dps with no problem with Pro Model ??
I'm told this can be an issue with Apex Model. I would not want to scratch Shigefusa, Heiji, some other blades and that also suggests tape on the blade.
BTW .... I did review the specifications and noted Pro setting range of 6*-33* ..... Apex 10*-24*. My concern is how this translates to real life thinning of a common range of Japanese kitchen cutlery from Paring to Suji, some Cleavers ..... almost all double-bevel. Only an Usuba and Aji-kiri single-bevel at the moment.
I need some experienced comment please.
Thanks and regards,
Wed Oct 10, 2012 8:52 am
One benefit of the Pro model is getting lower angles. I'm going to state a theory I have based on dealing with using stones of different thicknesses. When you go from one stone to a thicker one (1/8" to 1/4" for example) the angle gets lower so you need to re-adjust the EP angle setting. So, how about if you glued 3 or 4 blanks together with the bottom one longer with the angled ends for mounting. The others would be the same length as the stone (6" normally). That would thicken the stone considerably meaning you would need to adjust the EP accordingly. If you thickened the stone like this enough and DON't re-adjust the EP, you would finally end up with a 0° angle when the stone arm (and stone) is parallel with the blade table. This makes perfect sense to me so if anyone can correct my thinking please do. I haven't tried it since I don't need anything lower than the Apex provides (approx. 9 or 10° per side without the collar mounted).
I wouldn't say the Pro model isn't worth the extra money but the differences I have always thought valuable are lower edge angles and the capability to sharpen scissors. Both of these capabilities are possible using the Apex with "workarounds". The angle workaround is the one I just described (if it works) and the other is sharpening scissors by clamping the scissor blade to the front of the EP Apex with a pair of vise grips (be careful not to crack EP frame). The scissor trick is great I think instead of paying quite a bit more for the Pro model along with the scissor attachment which is about $120 I think. That would be in the neighborhood of $300 more just to be able to sharpen scissors. If you sharpen for a living I'd go for the Pro model but for a normal guy with sharpening as a hobby like me I love "tricks".
I'd also go for the Pro model if I had a lot more money than I have.
Always get the best thay you can is a theory I agree with. Bearcat said the same thing also mentioning the "crying once"
Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:08 am
I appreciate the creative comments, which also raise more questions for me as a non-owner at present. I would have purchased EdgePro long ago if it allowed use of my many 'standard' size stones. I'm left wondering how well the Apex (or Pro) works with a 'stack' of blanks fastened together and offset in length ? If this is not any sort of problem, then it would be a solution at much lower cost. Like you, scissor sharpening is not a priority for me and I can purchase more and better stones with the difference cost.
.... an after-thought .... wondering why there are not more stones offered which are cut the same size only thicker? I understand the extra weight addition, but would it really be a problem? I would quickly be sending my Shapton Pro set in to be resized (actually maybe 2 from 1) if this could work.
Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:19 am
I tried the 2"x6" DMT stones on the EP. They work fine but I didn't like the extra weight when trying to apply VERY light strokes. They are fine for the coarser grits I guess but using heavier stones on the EP is not for me but some have said it doesn't bother them. The weight of a few aluminum blanks wouldn't be much at all. The blank material I get at Lowe's is very light.
Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:33 am
I had heard about raising the knife off the platform to decrease the angle on the apex for single beveled edges, but haven't tried it yet as i have nothing that needs a thinner angle.
Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:40 am
what you do is put a piece of cardboard under the spine. Raising the spine lowers the edge angle. Ben Dale uses this method to sharpen the back side of serrated edges where the angle needs to be as low as possible.
Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:35 am
The message getting through is that Apex will do fine (perhaps with a wood or cardboard shim at the blade spine) for a very large percentage of home sharpeners. Pro seems to be worth every extra $$ in terms of its construction, specs, et al, for those who insist on it. I hope to not end up as the OP and go with Apex only to still move to Pro later ....
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