Thu Feb 07, 2013 2:36 am
I am currently using a Tojiro DP Gyuto and a Richmond Artifex both of about 10". I have had much better success getting a great edge on the Tojoiro. The artifex still plagues me. I want to love the Richmond line, but here lays this barrier.
I have available:
Shapton Glass 1/2k
Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:15 am
I find that the Artifex sharpen much easier than most VG-10 blades I have, especially during the deburring process. Are you sure your bevels are meeting fully at the coarser grits? Have you tried the Sharpie trick yet?
Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:39 am
You should add some magnification to your 'kit'. Given the tools you have, including the sharpie, plus a 20-40x loupe, you should be able to get extremely sharp edges. Look CLOSELY at your edge. Does it truly meet? Is there burr left, etc.
Pardoning the pun, but after generating a burr with the XXC and getting rid of it, focus on getting your best 1k edge. After you get a really good 1k edge, the rest should be relatively easy. Practice and practice some more. More abrasion resistant steels, by definition require more abrasion, so be patient and spend more time at each grit.
Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:41 am
After you look things over closely, you might decide to add a stone between the 1k and the XXC.
Thu Feb 07, 2013 1:26 pm
I would love a stone that is between the XXC and the Glass 1k. Its more a matter of figuring out which knife I want to purchase with it
In the meantime, would you advise using the DMT on the Artifex? I don't think I have altered the edge much, but I have ran it over all the other stones listed. I'm just jonesing for a sick sharp edge, and feel it can be done with what I have, but not with what I know.
Thu Feb 07, 2013 1:32 pm
To add information I do use the sharpie trick. In fact I find it helps me see a burr without magnification. I have a loupe, but the batteries are dead and it has surface scrathes, so never mind I don't own a good loupe
Thu Feb 07, 2013 2:35 pm
You can use the DMT XXC on the Artifex just fine, but if it's necessary or not is the question.
You can certainly get a really nice edge on the Artifex with what you have.
I would try to avoid the XXC for now....it's not something I recommend any newbie use in fact. You can really eff up your knife if you're not careful. Instead, as Ken says, sharpen with the 1,000 until you have a really great edge. At 1k, you should be able to shave arm hairs fairly easily. Raise a burr on both sides that you can feel with the 1k, then remove the burr. Use a dry paper towel to test for the tiniest of residual burrs. Pull the knife laterally across a dry paper towel laid across your fingertips. Make the edge just kiss the paper towel on both sides....you can feel a tiny burr at this grit level snag the paper towel. Work until that burr is completely gone. You should have a knife at this point that is sharper than when new and can shave arm hair.
As Ken said, if you put a really great 1,000 grit edge on the knife, everything past that is cake. It's just a matter of simple polishing.
Thu Feb 07, 2013 2:46 pm
Don't fear the coarse stone, it is your friend.
Add a stone between the XXC and 1k and you should be good. With the stones you have you should be able to make the artifex extremely sharp.
Thu Feb 07, 2013 3:23 pm
Latte 400 and Bester 500 are good stones that work quickly. I have both; the Bester 500 may be a hair quicker, but leaves MUCH deeper scratches, kinda looks like a diamond stone was used. The Latte 400 is a tiny bit slower, but leaves a much more refined scratch pattern, no where are coarse looking as the Bester 500. The Latte 400 also works well with Kasumi finishes, too.
Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:10 pm
While I like the 150 Nubatama Bamboo, it is an aggressive stone, so you might go with a higher grit stone like the 320 Nubatama Ume for the stone inbetween the XXC and 1k stone.
Here's an independent review comparing it to the Beston 500:http://www.memagnus.com/wp/?p=312
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