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 Post subject: Tip work
PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 4:51 pm 

Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 4:00 pm
Posts: 60
I'm having the hardest time hitting the edge of the blade the closer I get to the tip on any chef's knife or gyuto I sharpen on my Edgepro. The greater the curve and the thinner the tip, the worse the problem is. Not just hard… I can't do it at all. The rest of the blade ends up just crazy sharp but the tip is blunt as a bowling ball. The problem is not as bad on Santoku knives, but still apparent. The only knife I can get properly sharp at the tip is the Shun Classic Asian paring knife, which has essentially no curve at all and very little distal taper.

There must be some Edgepro-specific technique that's the equivalent of "rocking" the blade as you near the tip while free handing but I'll be damned if I can figure it out. How do you guys do this?


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 5:04 pm 

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:22 am
Posts: 644
I sharpen longer knives in two sections along a line halfway down the blade. For the right face of the blade I position the halfway mark on the right side of the blade table to sharpen the heel end. I position the halfway mark on the left side of the blade table to sharpen the tip end. Adjust bevel angle between these sharpening areas. There will be a small discontinuity in angle near the halfway line, but nothing glaring.

Cheers,

Rick


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 5:05 pm 

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:22 am
Posts: 644
Also, like fishordie, make sure you're not hitting the white plastic guard. Doh!


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 6:28 pm 

Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 11:01 pm
Posts: 362
Location: ATL
I've not had this issue. My goal is to keep ~2" edge that I'm currently running the stone across parallel to the blade table edge. I do the last inch of the blade as its own entity and the edge is in approximately the same position as the knife was when I set the sliding blade guide depth and double up my stroke count on that section before working my way back to the heel. No magic tricks here, I simply followed the directions on setting the guide depth and sharpening procedure in the manual / videos.
Oh, and I threw that white plastic guard away a long time ago after exchanging emails with Dale on sharpening short (not tall) knives.


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 12:28 am 

Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:45 am
Posts: 133
I am wondering, as Rick noted, if you are hitting the back stop like I have noted happened to me. I do not know if I am doing something wrong or right but I am now doing the less tall sections, such as the tip, off to the side of the back stop when I find the cutting surface of the stone is rubbing the top of the back stop without hitting the blade edge (lesson learned). Though I am not backed perfectly by the edge of the table I find I can control the grinds and angles as I lightly work the tip and narrower width edges at angles the back stop normally prevents. I find I prefer this to raising the table height by shimming up the blade edge with a piece of cardboard or other thicker material in order to not hit the back stop when grinding at steeper angles. Again, I am not sure if this is correct or not but my results have been really good and I am able to repeat the procedure regardless which knife I am sharpening. I have used this on my Petty and Sujihiki across longer sections of the less tall areas of the blades with good success. It is not a problem with my larger Gyuto or chef knives which do not hit even at 10 degrees. The technique is slightly awkward but nothing extraordinary. I highly doubt the manufacturer would approve of my technique but until I make a more permanent shim to see if that takes care of the problem I will continue with my crude modification. Best of luck.

Jamie


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 6:19 pm 

Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 11:01 pm
Posts: 362
Location: ATL
Fish - Do you have the plastic guard still on the back stop? If I'm understanding your post correctly, have you tried removing it?


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:19 am 

Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:45 am
Posts: 133
I have not removed it yet but I am considering it. It is still on there only because it's removal, the last time I used it, would not have given me enough clearance any way as I was experimenting with 10 degree angles (10 per side) on my petty and suji which are not tall knives


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:24 pm 

Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:45 am
Posts: 133
Rick,

You are right... Go figure... LOL. Removing the plastic guard on the back stop takes care of the hitting issue. I just need to make sure it is thick enough to continue hitting some of my knives with more rounded spines.. Thank you

Jamie


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:43 pm 

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:22 am
Posts: 644
Continuing the blue masking tape onto the spine helps ameliorate that issue.

Come at me bro! I have a dicked up knife or a scar for every pearl I cast here. :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Tip work
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 11:46 pm 

Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:45 am
Posts: 133
Rick, I sure hope that does not make me swine.... LOL


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