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 Post subject: Re: latte 400?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 7:48 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2014 2:28 am
Posts: 244
Impatience is a virtue for capitalism, couldn't wait anymore and pulled the trigger. Final set is the diamond 400/1000 for flattening, bevel work and initial refining, green brick, snow white, 3x8 leather and horse butt with 1 micron paste. Will I run into problems jumping from diamond to green brick or lapping with a 400? (Probably shouldve asked beforehand) either way im looking forward to no longer being covered with mineral oil and adding more stones down the road. Thanks everyone again for the help along the way.


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 Post subject: Re: latte 400?
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 2:41 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:17 am
Posts: 4046
Location: Kentucky
The diamond plate choice will be fine for repairs and bevel work but you will tire of it quickly when it comes to flattening. You would have been better off in my view to go with a 140 diamond plate for flattening and repairs then a 320-500 grit stone for your bevels and transitioning from diamonds to synthetics.



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 Post subject: Re: latte 400?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 2321
I use an Atoma 400 for flattening, and it most definitely takes longer than a 140 plate. If you flatten frequently and don't let the stones dish much at all, it won't be too bad. I would flatten after every sharpening session on the G.B. You might be able to go longer w/the Snow White, since it would normally see lighter duty use.

If you have enough metal removal to warrant the diamond plate, I'd start on the 1000 side and see how that works first. It will be much easier to remove the scratches from the 1K plate side with the G.B. If you need more aggressive metal removal, use a diamond 400, diamond 1K, G.B progression...


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