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 Post subject: Re: Sharpening Tojiro DP: suggestions?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:17 am
Posts: 7197
Location: Derby City, Kentucky
Mico-Mesh works well to polish blades. Buffing wheel in a drill with polishing compounds works well too.

If God wanted me to be a vegetarian he wouldn't make animals taste so good.
 Post subject: Re: Sharpening Tojiro DP: suggestions?
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 3:31 pm 

Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 1:36 pm
Posts: 841
Location: NY, NY; New Haven, CT
Hey guys,

Wanted to thank you all for the input. I recently got some higher grit paper and attacked the knives again with my old stone. I'm learning more, and had success fixing the tip on the masamoto and improving the "extended bevel" (or thinning) on several knives. I still haven't really gotten the kind of polish I want on the blade sides (edges are no problem), but this is because I haven't had a chance to get some of the materials you guys suggested (mico-mesh, finer grit paper).

I also really want to thank those that made the obvious point of the stone progression and not "sharpening" but merely "stropping" on the 6k. This relieved tons of frustration, and also made getting the edge razor sharp super, super easy on the 6k. I did more research and found this is pretty normal, although it seems to be a bit of a new thing—I seem to remember older video progressing to higher "k" stones with regular strokes quite frequently (sometimes including burr development), but my recent research found more than a few examples that sharpen on higher grits only with backstrokes, even when they consider this fully sharpening and not just "stroppping" the edge. I'm curious how many of you actually create burrs on stones above 4k with any regularity.

I wanted to share something interesting:

My Tojiro knives – a petty and a pairing – are definitely NOT ground equally on either side. This is extremely obvious if you try to polish the sides of the knife on a flat surface: the non-label side sits virtually flat against a surface, while the other has a clear convex grind. In fact, I messed up my blades a bit by trying to over-polishing them this way, as I believe I rubbed right through the san-mai stainless on the upper backside of the knife because it was so flat and so thin on that side. I also discovered that, at least at my skill level, this means that the knives get a much better edge with asymmetrical sharpening and, to some degree, thinning/beveling— they really like a more aggressive treatment on the "convex" or label side. In effect, the cutting performance was improved fairly dramatically in my case, especially on the feel of the knife through the whole slice, especially on the petty. I still feel like these knives are "training" knives for me, and I don't like the over-all grind of them (they are entirely effective in the kitchen, but I have not hesitated to abuse them as learning projects), so it is entirely possible that I am just corrected earlier errors and getting better at sharpening in general. I'll continue to experiment, and would love to hear of others have different experiences that what I am reporting here. I'd also love to hear if others find similar conclusions upon experimentation!

I also attacked the two remaining German knives that I still have, stopping at 1k and stropping there rather than trying to refine and polish on the 6k. I like the results—much easier and much less frustrating.

I look forward to experimenting more! Thanks again.

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