I reckon our semantics differ slightly as a "good coat of oil" is what I apply... with my finger.
You've been around long enough to know my literal demeanor. To slather, is to apply thickly. Common sense dictates oil is a liquid, and this liquid, albeit viscous, has its limits when it comes to applying thickly. G-D DAMN GRAVITY! I apply as thickly as I can w/o drippage... I slather. Why? Because the goal here is to penetrate the pores as deeply as possible with as much oil as possible so as to disallow contaminants like water to enter & degrade the wood. A simple swiping only penetrates superficially, but I know you knew this as you reapply in the morning in attempts to penetrate deeper. I find the second application nothing more than moot inefficency; albeit necessary, if you had employed only a swipe the prior evening.
This segues into your, "let it rest overnight". How do you do this? I for one, do not let knives rest out; I put them away into their drawer, toolbox, etc. Even on a magnet (I don't use), it opens the possibility of someone grabbing it... an oily handle. An oily handle, oily from applying a good coat w/your finger
or from a finger slathering
, is going to soil anything & everything around it... this is oil we're employing here. Put it in the original knife box, in the morning the box is saturated. Lay it on a cloth or paper towel, outside of the obvious fact that in the morning the towel will be saturated which will spread to wherever said towel is resting, but just as obviously, a towel is absorbent which is exactly what you're trying to avoid here. You want the oil in the Wa, not in the towel or the box or the paper or whatever the hell else someone imagines up.
This is not rocket science; it's wearing a rubber. Suck as they miserably may, I do my damndest to not leave remnants where I don't want to.
That said, I see later in this thread you explain a different variation of your application whereas, albeit after a sanding, you explain you apply & reapply for up to an hour then wipe excess. Again, why waste the time? Apply liberally, cover it, and go to sleep... you're going to anyhow. One step... done, and it effectively saturates more oil into the wood overall. Why employ more effort for less efficacy?
That segues into RAYONG
's brainstorm. First, to you RAYONG,
I've been doing this for years, and that is why I recommend it as described. I have used plastic, but the pictured ZipLoc is more effective. You will invariably get some degree of leakage using plastic wrap... unless of course for the sake of disproving me, you go to town with a whole roll and waste more time and energy than it's worth when you can just slip it in a bag & zip to the emoto. Additionally, though your oil/wa contact comment is ambiguous, at best, I think I get what you're laying down. The goal with my method is not to submerge the Wa; it is to retain leakage. If you want to submerge, follow ROOK's
method as his is tried & true. I'm not blowing myself, or ROOK for that matter, but there are times when experience & wisdom is worth listening to. Let me also be clear that I AM NOT of the opinion that my or ROOK's words are the gospel, but I have found & am reminded of daily, that common sense is all too uncommon. This is basic stuff, but a fundamental basis of employing core basic method is what separates the wheat from the chaff.
I'm not being snappy; it simply confuses me as to why everyone wants to reinvent the wheel. I and others here have gone through the trials & tribulations over years of R&D, and share our experience to assist here. Some take it, some fight it...
And futhermore RAYONG,
what do you think is any different between life expectancy for a wood Wa & a wood Yo... assuming they're the same woods? Conceptually, a Yo actually should last less as the opportunity for water/contaminates to penetrate the wood is exacerbated exponentially by the linear presentation of two scales being riveted to a steel tang. That gives contaminates 2 or 3 rivets to penetrate on both sides, it has the entire circumjacence of tang to scales to penetrate, and where the scales meet the bolster (assuming it has one as 95% do). I haven't owned any Wa's from birth, 40 years ago, but the Wa's I have will be in as good a shape as I maintain them to in the upcoming years. I'd say the next 40, but I'll have had long since ceased. Handles, as do steel, last as long as you care for them. Yes, heavy usage may retire one or both components of a knife before you die, but if you use a knife that much... you most likely would not be asking this question.
And to address DOUG
's qoute of CEDAR
, I will quote myself from two years ago... "Let the wood get wet and then let it air dry. This might have no effect on your handles, but in all likelihood will cause the grain to rise. I then sand it lightly with fine paper, then with 000 steel wool. Slather the handles pretty liberally with a beeswax/mineral oil paste consisting of 20% beeswax:80% mineral oil mixed in a double-boiler, wipe off excess, let it sit overnight, then buff it in the morning. You could do that a few nights in a row or as needed until the handle feels silky smooth, polished and “sealed” (although, technically it’s not really sealed)." reference: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=254&hilit=00%20steel%20wool
The method I explained there is very effective for a quarterly application schedule you hear reverberating amid this thread. Although I will add, I no longer waste the time. That is said from the perspective of a professional Chef. My handles' seals won't last 3 months... NO WAY. The added benefit of the wax only extends the seal's life by so much. In a residence, it's by far the way to go. ITK, it doesn't pay off. IT IS SO QUICK, unarguably effective, and SO EASY to do as I explain 21 posts ago. Every sharpening, slather oil, throw in a bag, use the next day. DONE!