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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 4:57 am 

Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:00 am
Posts: 678
Jason B. wrote:It's not Rust it's patina DONT TOUCH IT!!!!!!

Just sharpen and return. It's soft steel so don't go past 1k or it will be dull as a butter knife after it's first use. The bevel is thick and it looks very dull so expect some time on a coarse stone.



THIS IS WHAT I SAID. DONT YOU DARE TOUCH THE PATINA. It's the knives personality and story. Sometimes there is more beauty in character than there is in shiny things.

I say sharpen that puppy up with a nice micro bevel and then give it back. Don't bother with scotch brite pads and all that junk with a knife that has a story behind it.

To reiterate if it is a family heirloom, by removing the patina, you are destroying that family heirloom.


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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:02 am 

Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:21 pm
Posts: 427
Use the 220 to take out the chips and bumps, don't worry about scratch pattern vanity. Then use the 1k...finish on the 4k for a nice polished look.

If you really want to make the vintage knife have heirloom charm consider sharpening it on a vintage black arkansas stone. That would be a period correct edge.


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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:16 am 

Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 1:49 am
Posts: 338
Location: Amstelveen, The Netherlands
May I respectfully disagree with Jason about not going beyond 1k because it's soft steel? That's perfectly true where soft stainless is concerned, with large carbides in a weak matrix. Any high polish will weaken the matrix and carbides will break out with the first scratch, as we all experience with soft stainless Germans.
With soft carbons there is no such a problem. You may go as far as you want. I maintain them with Cr2O3 at some 30 degree per side and they hold it very well.


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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:43 am 
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Posts: 1496
I'm leaning towards Jason's approach. It is a patina (good) but it does have a lot of pitting too. And very dull. And sentimental. So even with the pitting, I'd say leave the patina alone. If you grind the patina away you have a bunch of pitting staring at you. You would have to grind a lot to get to the bottom of the pitting and there goes the knife's personality.

I'd go past the 1k for the edge. Not the end of the world to use your 4k stone on it, but don't go too acute on the angles, perhaps 20 degrees per side for it to hold up.

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Ken



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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:03 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:13 pm
Posts: 2962
Location: CT
I have done a few rehabs on carbon blades. Some I leave the blade as is, others I use BarKeepers Friend to remove the corrosion and some of the patina, it leaves a dull grey look to aged carbon steel, but keeps the bigger character marks. Sharpening, I usually remove chips and set the bevel with a slack belt to get a near zero convex edge and then Bester500/Latte 400, Bester 1200/Nubatama Ume 1K Medium, and strop on a leather belt laid out on the counter. You can go to a higher stone if you want, like a 2K or 4K, or a leather belt with compound, but those knives were designed for meat cutting, and like a toothier edge to them.


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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 2:49 pm 

Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 12:29 am
Posts: 993
Benuser wrote:May I respectfully disagree with Jason about not going beyond 1k because it's soft steel? That's perfectly true where soft stainless is concerned, with large carbides in a weak matrix. Any high polish will weaken the matrix and carbides will break out with the first scratch, as we all experience with soft stainless Germans.
With soft carbons there is no such a problem. You may go as far as you want. I maintain them with Cr2O3 at some 30 degree per side and they hold it very well.



No disrespect but that's hog wash.


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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 3:53 pm 

Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:29 pm
Posts: 500
+1 to what Jason said. I would just sharpen it. Leave metal alone. I would also oil and wax the handle.


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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 12:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 12:44 am
Posts: 1123
+1 Jason B's rec +1 Luna.

Leave the patina alone. Sharpen, but don't get psychotic about it.



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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:35 am 

Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 1:49 am
Posts: 338
Location: Amstelveen, The Netherlands
Jason B. wrote:
Benuser wrote:May I respectfully disagree with Jason about not going beyond 1k because it's soft steel? That's perfectly true where soft stainless is concerned, with large carbides in a weak matrix. Any high polish will weaken the matrix and carbides will break out with the first scratch, as we all experience with soft stainless Germans.
With soft carbons there is no such a problem. You may go as far as you want. I maintain them with Cr2O3 at some 30 degree per side and they hold it very well.



No disrespect but that's hog wash.

You may develop.


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 Post subject: Re: How to proceed with this knife?
PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:23 am 

Joined: Thu Dec 26, 2013 6:34 pm
Posts: 100
Hey guys. I just wanted to thank everyone in the thread for helping so much. I finally got around to sharpening and figured I'd share the results. I ended up leaving the patina as is, probably because I'm lazy, but officially because it tells the unique story of the knife. :) I used the edge pro. Free hand is getting better, but don't feel it's quite up to doing other people's knives. Went from 320, 500, 1k, 4k. 18*/side. Tried to be patient and find a burr. Seems pretty sharp!

Anyway, here it is. :)

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r61 ... 023a40.jpg
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r61 ... 196677.jpg

And at 400x under the microscope.

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r61 ... a954bd.jpg


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