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 Post subject: low grit stones
PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 4:22 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:12 pm
Posts: 34
OK I bought a 180 bamboo stone to replace my 120 ep stone. Problem is it seems to be dishing faster than the 120. Not what I expected. I hate to fork out the cash for the 140 atoma.
One thing I notice the 220 stones does not seam to dish at all can I just buy a 220 shapton for my reprofiling stone
I got a shapton 4 k works great but feed back feels weird not sure how the 220 will work


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 Post subject: Re: low grit stones
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:18 am 

Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:00 am
Posts: 623
I find glass stones give very little feedback when sharpening compared to their natural or synthetic counterparts.

In terms of dishing I really couldn't give you a clear answer as to why the nubatama is dishing so quickly. Ken123 would be the man to go to in terms of that question.


If you want a fast cutting stone for re-profiling then a glass stone is your best bet.


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 Post subject: Re: low grit stones
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 11:41 am 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:28 pm
Posts: 487
Hi,
Low grit stones will dish faster han the EP stock stones, however, they work faster, the Bamboo 180 will do the work faster than the 120 EP. Make sure that you minimize the dishing by using the entire length of the stone. I had a tendency to work very quickly with the stone arm but I noticed the stones dishing faster than they should because I was rushing and using only the middle 3-4 inches. I slowed everything down and concentrated on using the full length of the stone and things improved vastly and in fact this simple motion sped up the process.
Shapton Glass stones, my favourite will have a different feel yes but if you can live with that you'll be rewarded.

I would give that 180 another shot, make sure it is flat to start with and then go nice and slow over the edge using as much of the six inches as possible. Keep it flat in between knives, don't let it dish.

Yes the 220 stone can be used, but don't give up on that Nubatama.


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 Post subject: Re: low grit stones
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 6:39 pm
Posts: 258
Grab a 60 nubatama. Use it for heavy repairs. Then just use the 180 for scratch removal.



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 Post subject: Re: low grit stones
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 4:25 am 

Joined: Wed May 02, 2012 11:14 am
Posts: 188
Location: Florida, USA, Earth
I find it very easy to use a lot more pressure when using the EP than free hand. I'd suggest making sure not to use excessive pressure. Just let the stone do the work. I have the Shapton glass EP stones from 500 to 16k and love them. The 500 stone does wear faster than the finer grits but as someone else said it cuts very fast. Also, once a knife has the profile you want you won't need the lower grit stones very often at all. It will depend on how many knives you sharpen. I don't have very many knives to keep sharp. However, in an effort to improve my skill I have re-sharpened every knife in the house MANY times. Also, my desire to really improve also involved experimenting with different edge angles on different type knives. This means I've used the coarser grits 10 times more than I would have if all I did was keep the knives I own sharp. The EP does control the angle and is consistant but when it comes to that really refined sharp edge nothing will replace practice to improve using VERY light strokes and improving your "touch" when using the EP. Just like any tool. But, if you get the 220 or 320 Shapton glass they will work even faster. I am happy with the 500 grit enough that I don't plan on getting a coarser grit for the EP.

There is another option for the coarser grits though. You could get some moldmaster stones on congresstools.com and glue them to blanks you buy or make. The moldmasters are around $5 each and leave a very consistant scratch pattern. Since the scratch pattern from coarser stones will be completely removed 90% of the time it doesn't matter as much what type of stone you use IMO. But, if the coarser stones while cheap have large chunks of material that will leave DEEPER scratches than that grit suggests that might ruin your final finish. These deep scratches may not be noticed until using the finer grits (above 2k). When the bevel starts to look polished the random scratches will jump out at you. :mad:

But, if going the less expensive route isn't necessary the Shapton glass are great IMO. OTOH, they are the only higher quality stones I've ever used so I can only compare them with the EP stones and moldmasterss.


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