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 Post subject: Fujiwara honesuk
PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:19 pm 
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Location: Madison Wisconsin
Hi Mark,
I have two questions. Is the Fujiwara honesuki a handed knife? I'm getting it for a lefty, and she really doesn't want something designed for righties. If its not, I'll get the Tojiro, unless you think there is something better in a stainless knife at about that price point. Not sure why I'm leaning towards the Fujiwara at all except the desire for novelty.

Second, I'm planning on buying a Sharpton 1000 stone. Is there a reason to choose between the glass and the pro line? I"m never going to wear it out, so that needed be a consideration.

Actually, a third question, which I realize you might put up on the forum. After setting an edge on a 1000 grit, is using a higher grit afterwards getting the edge sharper, or is it more a matter of polishing, finish, and getting a smoother, more consistent edge, or something else altogether.
Thanks,
Paul



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 Post subject: Re: Fujiwara honesuk
PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:22 pm 
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Hi Paul,

This one has a right sided grind so it's not ideal for her. Same with the Tojiro but less so. Both are flat on the left side and convexed on the right side. Try getting a petty for boning tasks like the Tojiro F-802 petty.

I like the glass stones but they're similar. The glass stones wear more slowly and cut a wide variety of steels and the glass backing allows you to use the entire stone all the way to the glass without it cracking.



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 Post subject: Re: Fujiwara honesuk
PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:26 pm 
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Yes, using higher grits than 1,000 grit does make the knife sharper.

Between the Glass and Pro stone's, I'd probably pick based on cost. They're both good stone series.



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 Post subject: Re: Fujiwara honesuk
PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:31 pm 
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Location: Madison Wisconsin
Q3. If you look at the edge under magnification after you sharpen with a 1k stone it looks serrated. We call this a "toothy" edge and it's good for certain kinds of cutting tasks but less good at others. My experience is toothy edges are great for slicing and not as good for chopping where further refinement let's the blade glide through food with less resistance. Also a toothy edge seems to loose it's sharpeness more quickly and I am guessing this is because the tiny imperfections degrade more quickly as they come into contact with the board and the food you're cutting. So what most sharpeners do is they experiment until they get a routine that produces and edge that they are happy with for their needs. I've kind of settled on a 3 stone progression with coarse, middle and fine grits and then I strop lightly a few times on leather with boron carbide. I'm always switching the stones around to try as many as possible so I can talk about them but that is the basic routine.



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