Thanks for the info but I wasn't talking about putting compound on the rod I ment the leather case the rod comes with. From what I read you can put compound on any piece of leather and use as a strop.
You're welcome for the info regarding packer's steels vs ceramic rods. As to your question about charging the HA Boro's case with compound and using it as a strop:
Really. Bad. Idea.
The case isn't flat which makes it a terrible choice for stropping a kitchen knife. Not only that, you'll destroy the case, and it's far more expensive to replace it (if it's replaceable at all) than a piece of leather glued to a piece of mdf. Would the strop rod remove less metal since the ceramic rod is between 1000 to 2000 grit and the compound is more on the lines of 64000 grit or higher?
An exact answer is difficult and because (a) there aren't enough specifics in the hypothetical; and (b) I don't know enough about the subject to apply the math necessary for a quantified answer the question; so (c) I can't attempt an answer -- at least not to five place accuracy.
A practical, non-quantified answer is another matter. As a rule, fine textured rods (including polished, "no-texture" rods), if used correctly, remove the metal that's going to come off anyway and not much more. Stropping on an fine or ultra-fine charge, or on a smooth, uncharged strop usually doesn't take as much metal as steeling. However, steeling seldom leaves wires, while stropping does and consequently tends to require some sort of deburring.
Not all knives are appropriate candidates for truing on rod hones. But for those which are, a rod is a helluva lot faster and more convenient than a strop.
If you want to pursue these subjects, read Steeling Away
first so you have some idea of what I mean when I say "correctly," and we'll move on to the next state of confusion.