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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:30 pm 

Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 4:59 pm
Posts: 199
What kind of knife is in you avatar Adam?


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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:36 pm
Posts: 2821
This one:

http://marrknives.com/?page_id=157



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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:42 pm 

Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 4:59 pm
Posts: 199
Wow you make your own knives, that is amazing!!! That definitely puts your opinion into a new light.


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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:45 am 
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Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 4:42 pm
Posts: 3755
Location: USA... mostly.
Jwesly1 wrote: "I am basically trying to get you guys to tell me that a light knife like a Goko will perform well enough to where my thinking is invalid or outdated. Basically it is Japanese vs German style, so far Japanese knives have cut the mustard but I am thinking maybe I need both."

As Adam stated hard steel does not have to be treated like glass, but it does warrant respect. Lateral movements from scraping the cutting edge perpendicular across a board or torquing the blade by "twisting" it into product, then the board is disrespectful. Excessive force blasting a thin edge into a hard poly board is disrespectful. Blunt trauma with hard items like bones is most likely going to chip a blade.

I have a lot of knives, and I use them professionally. I have been using a Konosuke White #2 Gyuto in 240 as my go-to for the last month, the quintessential laser over 2 ounces lighter than your MAC. I have peeled pineapples, peeled watermelon, segmented raw corn cobs cutting straight through cross sections, sliced crusty baguettes, etc., and have not damaged the edge in the least. Are these the best things to be doing with such a thin edge? ABSOLUTELY NOT, but if treated with respect, light thin knives perform "well enough" though I won't comment on "your thinking."

Do I have heavier thicker knives? Yes, but I don't find myself pulling them out just for an isolated task. Meaning, if I have to quarter 10 corn cobs into 40 1.5" segments, I am not going to pull another knife. If I have to split 2 bushels, that's a different story.



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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:09 pm 

Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 4:59 pm
Posts: 199
Well all this has been extremely helpful and I think I found my new workhorse, I am going with the Masamoto VG 240mm Gyuto. As soon as it is back in stock I will be ordering one from chef knives to go, I am even on the email list. I will let you guys know how the whole experience turns out and how well it works in a busy kitchen, I am scared to tell my fellow cooks as I feel they will want to borrow it so I will slowly work it in as not to arouse any suspicion. BTW Adam I might be interested in having some handle work done on this knife eventually, nothing to snazzy but I will try and keep in touch. Thanks again guys for all the help and great advice!!!


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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:39 pm 

Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 4:59 pm
Posts: 199
Oh one more pressing question, I just figured out the edge is 70/30 on the Masamoto. If I sharpen with my standard technique, 50/50, should I focus more on the 30 side and less on the 70 to even it out or should I just continue with my same technique and it will even itself out.


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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 3:23 am 
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WES <> This can get a little sketchy as there are obviously different logics to premise. My response is simple. If you are happy with how your blades end up, then don't fix what's not broken... but I will proffer some food for thought. If you sharpen 7 laps on the right side grinding away metal creating a right side bevel (this obviously reaches over to the left of blade center) and then you lap an equal 7 on the left side, do you think the two bevels meet symmetrically, or do think an equal 7 laps will bring the left bevel back over center-line to the right? 8-)



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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:07 pm 
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It's not that the edge is 70/30, it's that the entire knife is ground 70/30.



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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 4:03 pm 

Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 4:59 pm
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It's not that the edge is 70/30, it's that the entire knife is ground 70/30.

Well that kind of takes this particular knife off the table then cuz I am not skilled enough at sharpening to take on that kind of task yet. I like the idea that melampus proposed about the edge symmetry. I do a count down grind which should help prevent that, like 10 on one side 10 on the other counting down to 1 which I do three times and start on the opposing side on the next stone. My sharpening needs work but it is getting there. Anyway, no need to waste anymore of u guys time, or this forum's for that matter. I will just figure it out on my own by looking through old threads or starting new ones about specific knives. Thanks again!!!


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 Post subject: Re: My new workhorse
PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 4:42 pm 
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Don't fret about asymmetry.

Buy the knife, sharpen as you will, and enjoy it.

I was simply stating that it's not just the edge that's ground 70/30.

Asymmetry does NOT have to be replicated to enjoy your knife. Asymmetry does have to be replicated if you want that last % of performance out of your knife.



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