"the pro stones are for SS, the glass stones for Carbon"
Actually the common wisdom when the GlassStones first came out years ago was just the opposite - that the GS were only good for stainless. I wound up arguing that the GS work well for both the carbon and stainless steels and eventually convinced some diehards. There are a few 'gray' glassstones specifically designed for carbon steels, but again I found the distinction meaningless, with the grey stones handling metal swarf and glazing a SLIGHT bit better, but not a meaningful practical difference.
"For low end grinding consider the Atoma plates - then you can start your stone progression at 1k or there abouts, depending which Atoma you stop at."
What you will find is that you will use these to set bevel angles and repair edge chips. For your own knives, you will usually care well for them but you will be enlisted to repair other people's knives and they will look like hell so you need 'the rough stuff'.
320 or 500 GS is fine but both are unnecessary.
The 150 Bamboo is one of my favorites. FAST. I just got done cutting up a bunch of them for the EP. Highly recommended as an accompaniment with the 140 Atoma. If you get the 150 Bamboo, go for the 500 GS. If not go for a coarser 320 GS.
I also cut a BUNCH of Nubatama stones for the EP so expect an expanding number of Nubatama stones coming to Mark. This will include the remaining bamboo series stones and a number of Ume series Nubatama stones. Stay tuned for more info on these new choices. The range of choices for customizing your sharpening 'toolkit' is far greater among the Nubatamas than any other series of stones.
I would skip a ceramic rod and use your ep stones instead. There is no law that says you can't pick up an EP stone in your hand and use it as as 'rod' for touchups. In most instances the ceramic rods are coarser than your stones so you would be degrading the edge.