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 Post subject: Edge Pro Tips, Heel and Tip
PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 4:36 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:01 pm
Posts: 165
Was wondering if some of you might have some suggestions. Having a little problem with the heel of the knife when I first get started sharpening and the tip end.
Right now I am beginning the knife at the heel with a couple of straight up and down strokes, then changing to the arcing strokes. Do you normally just stroke from the heel on out, or do something like this?

Also, it feels sort of strange when I get to the tip area. Can't quite tell if I have the stone level at the tip.

Thanks for any input concerning this. I have the EP Professional model with stock stones from 120 through the tapes.

Getting a little better at relaxing with the knife, but not much. I can see, though, that with practice that will come.


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 Post subject: Re: Edge Pro Tips, Heel and Tip
PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 1943
Raibeax -Did your DMT plate arrive yet? Also, any status update on your progress with the Forschner? I'm curious to know if a 15 degree edge is holding up on that knife.

For me - and this is only my feedback on how I go about it - I try to keep the EP stone mostly on the knife at the tip and not too far off the tip end. It feels like I'm tipping the stone if I get too far off the tip end and it starts gouging the stone. I have seen others sweep and arc the stone past the tip & off the knife.

On the heel, if you feel like it's not getting the same amount of time on the stone, I don't see why a few extra short sweeps, concentrating on the heel would hurt. That's what I do, if the heel isn't where I want it. On more than one of my knives the grind at the heel is less than perfect. I must be careful not to let that influence how I develop the edge at the heel in relation to being consistent with the rest of the edge.

Keep us informed as to your progress.

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 Post subject: Re: Edge Pro Tips, Heel and Tip
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:38 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:01 pm
Posts: 165
Hi. DMT arrived and works fine and pretty fast.
Here is my progress update on the Forschner:
NOT GOOD>
First, the knife is dull after all the work. Doing something wrong.
Set the machine at 15*, got a burr. Changed to 17* and went through the stones, no burrs.

A few minutes ago I re-read the directions (original idea), and it said there should have been a 5-6* difference, where I had a 2*. Evidently for a 17* edge I should have started the reprofile at around 12 or should have gone for 20*-21* from the 15*. I think I'll first try just changing to the 20 and see what happens.

Also, I'm getting a lot of dishing, half-moon shape starting about a half-inch from the heel, extending about two inches.

A big question I have is about my stones. Here is my situation, don't know if it's normal or what.

I have the stock EP stones. 120,220,400,600, and 1000 plus the 2000 and 6000 tapes. Thickness of the stones vary as such:
The 120 is a little thicker than the 220.
The 220 is a little thicker than the 400.
The 600 and the 1000 and the tape are thicker than the others, but pretty much even with the 120.
So, when I sharpen, I start with the 120, go down in thickness to the 220, go down in thickness again to the 400, then thickness goes back up for the 600 and 1000 and the tape, which are the same thickness. Down to 220...down to 400... then up to 600 and 1000 and tape.

Do these variences make a difference? Up and down?
Would I still do the madrookie drill stop collar thing starting with the finishing tape

If I discount small differences, the starting 120 is really the only one that is a lot thicker.

I think later today I'll just change the EP to 20*, and start over on the stones and see what happens. Should be plenty of metal already removed from the original botch job.


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 Post subject: Re: Edge Pro Tips, Heel and Tip
PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 3:59 pm
Posts: 1612
Location: Cape Town - South Africa
Relax your hold on the knife & attempt to feel the blade position.

Once you can achieve this with your eyes closed, you will have no more tip problems.

:)



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 Post subject: Re: Edge Pro Tips, Heel and Tip
PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:55 pm 

Joined: Wed May 02, 2012 11:14 am
Posts: 186
Location: Florida, USA, Earth
Raibeaux wrote:Was wondering if some of you might have some suggestions. Having a little problem with the heel of the knife when I first get started sharpening and the tip end.
Right now I am beginning the knife at the heel with a couple of straight up and down strokes, then changing to the arcing strokes. Do you normally just stroke from the heel on out, or do something like this?

Also, it feels sort of strange when I get to the tip area. Can't quite tell if I have the stone level at the tip.

Thanks for any input concerning this. I have the EP Professional model with stock stones from 120 through the tapes.

Getting a little better at relaxing with the knife, but not much. I can see, though, that with practice that will come.



Steve's advise on the tip is perfect. I view it as NEVER let more than 50% of the width of the stone travel past the tip. This way you can "feel" that any part of the stone is as flat on the edge as possible. Also, GO SLOW.

At the heel the dishing or recurve shape you can get is usually on knives where the edge buts right up to a part of the blade (ricasso???) that is like a wall. The alternate of this is a blade with a notch at the end of the edge where the stone can travel past the edge just like it does at the tip. When the stone can travel past the edge it will stay flat on the edge and you won't get the dishing about the same distance from the heel as the stone is wide. But, when the edge goes all the way to the "wall" there is usually a curve that raises the stone so there is a gap between the stone and the edge in the center of the stone. Meaning the other side of the stone is cutting deeper into the edge creating the dishing. I like to use diamond needle files to create a "sharpening notch" at the very end of the edge. This way the stone stays flat on the edge and the edge stays flat. Also, the notch comes in handy when cutting small string, fishing line, etc. With the needle files you can keep the inside of the notch sharp enough to cut stuff like this. The notch can be small enough that it's not noticable at a glance. I'm sure you have seen some blades designed where the edge just drops off at the heel. Chef's knives and a lot of kitchen cutlery is like this. I have been picturing folding knives and assumed this is what you are talking about even though some fixed blades are like this. I hope this made sense and helps.


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