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 Post subject: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 3:38 am 

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:01 pm
Posts: 165
Getting ready to try out MadRookie's stop collar method. I have the Edge Pro Pro with stock EP stones from 120 through the tapes.
Would you use the tape as a finishing stone just like a normal stone?


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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 5:45 am 
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Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 3:59 pm
Posts: 1726
Location: Cape Town - South Africa
Yes, but do the following:
1. Raise the angle arm just a hair's breadth when you go the the tapes.
2. Only use edge trailing strokes to prevent the tape being cut.
3. The tapes respond well with very soapy water.

Enjoy.

:)



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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 3:34 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:01 pm
Posts: 165
Hey, MR, how's it going?
Another question, what about the comment from the guy about having the knife on the machine when you do the degree settings?
Would this make any difference, or would any difference be too small to amount to much. Many thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:47 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:01 pm
Posts: 165
Also, I have the set of stock Edgepro stones, 120, 220, 400, 600, 1000, and the tapes.
They seem to be the same thickness, except for the 400 which is thicker than any of the others.
Will the collar still work, and would I still begin by setting the table to the finishing stone. When I get to the 400, it will be thicker, then when I switch to the 600 it thins down and pretty well matches the rest in thickness.


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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:14 pm 
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Location: Seattle, WA USA
Yes. That is the correct way to use the collar.


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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 6:16 am 
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Raibeaux wrote:Hey, MR, how's it going?
Another question, what about the comment from the guy about having the knife on the machine when you do the degree settings?
Would this make any difference, or would any difference be too small to amount to much. Many thanks.


Setting the degrees with the blade resting on the blade table will give you a truer reflection of the desired set angle.

Setting the angle without the blade will normally be slightly more acute (normally 1 to 3 degrees off) depending on the blade thickness, width etc.

Most of my gyutos come in at just under 2 degrees less than the actual angle cube reading when setting up without the blade on the table - I just compensate for this - too much hassle to measure with the blade on the table.

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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:12 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:01 pm
Posts: 165
So if you're going for accurate 15* with a gyuto, you would set machine for around 17? Around 16 with a suji?
Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:41 pm 
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Yep, something like that, although I first measure each blade to get an actual true reading, then record it in my data base for next time round.

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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 5:07 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:01 pm
Posts: 165
Would be nice to come up with some sort of numbered graduated-line sticker for the side of the table knife guide, and an etched line across the guide itself.
??


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 Post subject: Re: Question About MadRookie's Method
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 6:18 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:01 pm
Posts: 165
I hope I'm not doing wrong posting this twice. If so, please excuse my hysteria.

Hi. DMT arrived and works fine and pretty fast.
Here is my progress update on the Forschner:
NOT GOOD>
First, the knife is dull after all the work. Doing something wrong.
Set the machine at 15*, got a burr. Changed to 17* and went through the stones, no burrs.

A few minutes ago I re-read the directions (original idea), and it said there should have been a 5-6* difference, where I had a 2*. Evidently for a 17* edge I should have started the reprofile at around 12 or should have gone for 20*-21* from the 15*. I think I'll first try just changing to the 20 and see what happens.

Also, I'm getting a lot of dishing, half-moon shape starting about a half-inch from the heel, extending about two inches.

A big question I have is about my stones. Here is my situation, don't know if it's normal or what.

I have the stock EP stones. 120,220,400,600, and 1000 plus the 2000 and 6000 tapes. Thickness of the stones vary as such:
The 120 is a little thicker than the 220.
The 220 is a little thicker than the 400.
The 600 and the 1000 and the tape are thicker than the others, but pretty much even with the 120.
So, when I sharpen, I start with the 120, go down in thickness to the 220, go down in thickness again to the 400, then thickness goes back up for the 600 and 1000 and the tape, which are the same thickness. Down to 220...down to 400... then up to 600 and 1000 and tape.

Do these variences make a difference? Up and down?
Would I still do the madrookie drill stop collar thing starting with the finishing tape

If I discount small differences, the starting 120 is really the only one that is a lot thicker.

I think later today I'll just change the EP to 20*, and start over on the stones and see what happens. Should be plenty of metal already removed from the original botch job.


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