I also have a Nubatama Bamboo 150 Grit on my list of stones to test drive. Mostly interested in using the 150 to follow the generic 140 Grit Diamond Plate and clean up the scratch from the diamond plate. A good strategy.
This leads into my question about the proper/recommended use for a diamond plate vs. the Nubatama bamboo 150 (low grit stone) vs. The Nubatama Ume 60 grit stone. It seems that there is some overlap between these three options or am I missing something? Maybe I should ask what the optimal use of each of these three would be?
What does one flatten the Nubatama Ume 60 grit stone with? Will a 140 diamond plate flatten a 60 grit stone? Do you follow the Ume 60 with the Bamboo 150?So the Nubatama 150 can be used on it's own as it dishes slowly for a very coarse stone, but it does dish. Diamonds don't dish - they wear out. Better ones wear out slowest. Used with the coarsest of diamond stones (Atoma 140 is coarser than the XXC DMT 120), the 150 'converts the diamond scratch pattern to a stone scratch pattern, making it MUCH easier for your next stone to deal with the deeper scratches. The 150 bamboo can be flattened with the Atoma 140 / DMT XXC. The 60 grit can be as well, but go gentle here. A second 60 grit stone or a 24 grit stone would work. What do you do with the 24 grit? Well another 24 grit - ideally two of them is the ideal answer. These are extraordinarily tough stones. You can certainly follow the 60 with the 150 This is ideal too.
Do you prefer the Nubatama Ume 1K black brick over the Chosera 1K? How would you compare these two stones?, the strengths and weaknesses of each?
I'm often guilty of specifying for exactly the circumstances you specify. The Chocera 1k is a good stone. But the black brick 1k is more than twice the thickness and you are going to be doing a lot of grinding. When I go to sushi bars, I always see a brick sized stone as the 'house' stone and so I like to recommend a big stone for your application. The Chocera stones don't take an abusive environment as well - they are sensitive to repeat dry / wet cycles with reported cracking issues. I have not personally had the problem as I'm pretty cautious with my stones, but your environment seems a bit more freefor all.
Lastly is there any benefit to using a series of stones from the same company vs. the mix and match approach I'm planning to use? 140 Grit Diamond Plate > Nubatama bamboo 150 > Nubatama Bamboo 220/King 250 > Latte 400 > Chosera 1K/King 1K > Naniwa Aotoshi 2k > ???
Mix and match is fine, including Nubatama UME and Bamboo. I also mix between vendors' stones, depending on what I'm trying to accomplish. You trade consistency for versatility. I often mix Choceras and Shaptons for instance and even naturals and synthetics for the desired result.
And there are still a few companies, Shapton, Imanishi, etc... I would like to get experience with before I start exploring some Japanese carbon knives and sticking my toes into the japanese naturals pond.Let me know when you want to jump into the Japanese Naturals pond. I give swimming lessons I've also tapered these recommendations excluding your higher end Japanese knives you mentioned earlier for a later discussion.
FWIW the 60 and 24 grit Nubatamas I find work best with more pressure than I use on higher grit stones. On some hard steels and stones they don't seem to 'dig in' as easily. You can add some loose silicon carbide to these stones to increase their abrasiveness. I just found this circumstance with softer knives and trying to keep track of diamond plates (I've seen DMT's rust when left laying around in water for instance) an ideal place to deploy a 60 grit UME.