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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 3:12 pm 
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The spacer is done....I went with black. I finished grinding the blade last night and glued on a black spacer made from African Blackwood. Tonight the handle gets glued on.



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Adam

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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 5:49 pm 
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Location: Madison Wisconsin
More pictures!!! :)



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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:15 pm 
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Yeah, more pictures! Pictures or it didn't happen! :mrgreen:



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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:38 pm 
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I'll take some pictures tonight of final handle assembly....a "How To" of sorts. :)



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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:51 pm 
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Sweet!!


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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 1:41 am 
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Location: USA... mostly.
Ahhh... the suspense. ;)



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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:27 pm 
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Alright, so off we go:

Here is where we started the night:

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I've epoxied on the black spacer I decided to use. This is going to be a hidden tang handle with three Corby bolts holding everything together. I decided against a mosaic pin because the tang was only so wide and putting a mosaic pin in required too large of a hole in the tang for me to feel comfortable.

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In order to get a good, tight fit, I measured the thickness of the tang with calipers and then set the scales in the mill with the tang outline drawn. The mill is set to cut half the thickness of the tang into each scale. Gotta love a digital readout mill. :) I went something like 0.005" deeper than perfect to allow space between the tang and the scales for epoxy. You'll notice the tang slot is too long for the tang....because I decided to use that spacer after I cut the tang slot. :oops:

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Next, we make sure the fitment between the two scales is tight. Sanded and flattened with 150 grit on a granite reference block. They're flat now.

A better glue joint would be created with a rougher surface, but I wanted a tighter looking joint and with all the epoxy and three bolts, the handle is bomb proof enough.

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Test fit to make sure the joints are all okay.

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With some strategically placed clamps I drill the shaft holes for the Corby bolts

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This side is done.

[imghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LCgH0QEVGMQ/UKOlxXZ1AKI/AAAAAAAAE3M/MNqK7ax6BGU/s640/20121113_175851.jpg][/img]

All three of the shaft holes drilled. Now time to make the shoulder cut.

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I use a reamer made by the same guy that makes my Corby bolts....this assures a tight fit since he makes both.

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These were not done in this picture, I needed to go deeper, but it shows what we end up with. The bolts shoulder rests on that wood and pulls the two scales together.

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Test fit....everything looks great.

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While the scales are not epoxied (just bolted) together, I use a 36 grit belt to remove some of the excess material. Basically just less work to do later....but with both scales even all around, it's easier to wipe off excess epoxy as it's squeezed out too.

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All tightened up, epoxied, and set to dry overnight.

I thought I got a picture of the drawing on both scales. I trace an outline of the tang on both scales.....make sure when I'm shaping it later that I don't over do it. Safety first....it's the simple, 3 minute tasks that can save you hours later.

More tonight....hopefully my wife lets me in the shop again. :)



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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:28 pm 
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Last picture didn't work...sorry!



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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:42 pm 
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Well shucks....this one didn't either.



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 Post subject: Re: White or Black
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:01 am 
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Solution: sandwich the white spacer between two slightly thinner black spacers - now that would look awesome.

:)



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