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 Post subject: Kanehiro Question
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:18 pm 
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Location: Madison Wisconsin
This question is a little late but better late than never. I purchased a Kanehiro 240mm Wa-Gyuto from you around six months ago. There is little information anywhere about this knife maker or even about the knives you sell. I'm almost positive it isn't a 50/50 bevel, 30/70, 10/90?! I've been struggling to sharpen it to it's full potential and could use some additional information about the knife. Thanks
-Mike



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 Post subject: Re: Kanehiro Question
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:33 pm 
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Hi Mike,

If you've sharpened the knife once you have changed the factory edge which is fine. They do come with about a 50/50 edge out of the box.

Tell me how you are sharpening the knife and maybe I can help you out. What's your routine? What stones do you use? Do you deburr, flatten and strop?



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 Post subject: Re: Kanehiro Question
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:37 pm 
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Dear Mark,

I've been sharpening my own knifes for 2 years now with Japanese waterstones 1-5-8k grit. My question is is it possible for me to get my knife edge back to the factory edge with stones? Because say with my konosuke HD, it came with a 50/50 edge but not visible to the eye because it is so thin. Once I started to sharpen it starting with the 1k it creates a more visible edge and now it basically looks like a Henckels edge, except it cuts ALOT better. It wasn't in a bad edge to begin with so maybe I should of just give it a few stroke with the 8k stone and maybe it wouldn't look like what it is now.

I hope you can understand what I am talking about. Or is that just how is it once it leaves the factory because they finish sharpening it with strop etc so the edge are completely smooth?

Thanks



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 Post subject: Re: Kanehiro Question
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:41 pm 
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Location: Madison Wisconsin
I can usually get my knives sharper than most of the factory edges I've tried.

My guess is you need to thin your Kanehiro and it would help for you to have a good low grit stone or two. You can do it with a 1K but it's a lot of extra work and a good low grit stone will come in handy.
Once you thin the edge you can sharpen it and it should improve cutting performance quite a bit. I'm just guessing that is what's going on.

I still would like you to answer these questions and I may be able to give you more specific advice:

Do you flatten your stones?
How are you finding the angle?
Do you deburr the edge? If so when and how?
Are you thinning the knife as you sharpen?



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 Post subject: Re: Kanehiro Question
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:16 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:09 pm
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Hi Mark,

Do you flatten your stones? I have not flattened my stone are they are Shaptons and they're quite hard.

How are you finding the angle? I find my angle by feel, I'd be in the ballpark of 20-30 degree most of the time. And when I try to go lower I usually marr up the blade.

Do you deburr the edge? If so when and how? I have one of your deburr block, but I don't see the use for it or what I thought it was.

Are you thinning the knife as you sharpen? I do "thin" down my knife with my 1k Shapton but as I grind off the edge it leaves me with a beveled edge, and basically after I go through the 5/8k stone, it leaves me with a mirror-like polished edge that just reminds me of a Henckel.

Maybe I've been doing it wrong the whole time. Because all of my knives (MAC, SHUN, Zanmai, Konosuke) came with a super thin japanese edge that is perfectly flat, and now they have a beveled edge.

PS: I watched one of your video with the 500 grit stone and doesn't look like it created an obvious edge on the knife and that is with a 500! Perhaps my angles are bad, and I put too much pressure on the knife making it grind too much away?


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 Post subject: Re: Kanehiro Question
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:19 am 
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ok do these things:

Flatten your stones. Odds are this is not your problem but don't screw something up that is so easy to fix.

Grind your knife at 10 degrees on both sides. Keep grinding until you generate a burr before you fiip and do the other side. If you need help with finding 10 degrees let me know.

Then deburr.

Then move to the next stone and repeat.

Strop/use edge trailing strokes on the final stone only. Lighter pressure as you move to finer stones is the way to go.

Let me know if this fixes your issues.



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 Post subject: Re: Kanehiro Question
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 4:55 am 

Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:09 pm
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Hi Mark, I would have to basically resharpen one of my knife from top to bottom to try this new method out for me. As my knifes all have a beveled edge now but I can see that by trailing at a lower angle like 10 flattens out the bevel edge. But also could it be because of the higher grit that's causing the edge to be more apparently than the blade itself?

Nonetheless, I feel enlightened.


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