Well the 5k SS would not be my choice following a natural stone in general. It leaves a bright shiny scratch pattern, which sort of goes in the opposite direction of increasing contrast provided with a natural stone. In general you don't tend to go back to synthetics once you start working on a natural stone finish with some exceptions like the Nubatama Bamboo 2k 3k and 15k and to a lesser but still noticeable extent the 1200 and 5k bamboo stones, which retain the kasumi finish.
Now if you are not going for a contrasting finish but just a bright finish on a double bevel knife the green brick following a 1k Chocera is nice, but a small step. The green brick is essentially the near twin brother of the 2k SS.
So to find common ground between the single and double bevel stone lineups is also like the common ground between straight razors and knives in general with single bevels being the softest, then double bevels and then straight razors. There is also an issue of personal taste and sharpening style here too.
With natural stones, you can 'adjust' characteristics to your tastes. So lets take the Meara for example. Want a softer slurry with a thicker mud? Use an aoto tomonagura on it. Now you can use the stone for single bevels. The follow it with a Hakka Tomae tomonagura. Want a harder surface to work on. Use the Meara with a Meara tomo. A bit finer? Use a Yaginoshima Asagi tomo or Hakka tomo.
I find the Yaginoshima Asagi one of those just right stones - not so hard you can't use it on knives or so soft you can't use it on razors. And with a bit of mud, it can be coaxed to do single bevels with care.
In a low grit range, I like the natural Ohmura stone for this. It is a bit soft so it can be used on double bevels with care and is a natural
for a single bevel.
If by low grit you are talking about 1k synthetics, the 1200 Bamboo is nice for single bevels. With care it also works with double bevels but it is quite soft and muddy. Here too you can use the mud from the 1200 applied to a harder surface like a piece of balsa strop to get a harder surface (a dry 1200 bamboo strop).
There are lot of other possibilities here - one of the reasons Nubatamas are a diverse group of stones
In general Shaptons are quite hard stones so they are best suited for precise applications - razors, woodworking tools, double bevel edges and jigs, while applications that need a bit more slack - single bevels, hamaguri grinds, convex edges and zero grind edges will go easier with a softer stone like the Choceras or even the superstones.
I think I'm starting to ramble ....