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Thu May 01, 2014 8:00 am
It sounds like the blade work is going well! You seem to be taking it nice and slowly. Just stick to a plan and don't overwork it. The knife looks lovely even in the pictures we already have considering its possible age. I think what surprises me most is how the knife differs from the current F. Dick offerings. It has a little less belly, much more French. If the knife is as old as you suspect, it predates the 1905 line, which borrows your knife's stamp swagger. That's pretty darn neat.
Before, during, and after pictures are warranted.
Thu May 01, 2014 10:35 am
I am definitely documenting my progress with this thing, and will have before/during/after pictures.
pjwoolw, I'm curious about something you said -- you mentioned boiled linseed oil -- is that vs. mineral or linseed... is there something in that that I'm missing? Heat-treating the oil before soaking it?
Restoration Edge in Palo Alto sounds cool, for sure but now I'm already down this path so going to follow it for awhile. And as for Taz(Pete?) lol.. my garage is not equipped for woodworking but we'll see where we are this summer. I imagine you work on much sexier blades than this thing =D
I did some research with my family, talked to my great aunt, and definitely know this knife is as old as 1946 but can't put an age on it past that yet. ;(
Thu May 01, 2014 12:07 pm
Taz is Tim Johnson...lol. I have done some rehabs for Sabs before and have done full regrinds and rehandles, finger guard removal, etc. It's fun bringing these older knives back to life!
Thu May 01, 2014 5:27 pm
Boiled linseed oil is a wood finish and can also be used in oil based paints as an additive to get a smoother finish. The user doesn't need to do anything to it but apply the product in a proper manner. Many folks don't like it. Mostly because it isn't used properly. I use it allot on many wood items. Anyway if you have soft spots in the handle its time for new wood.
Thu May 08, 2014 11:08 am
So this is what I'm looking at. I don't think I've done a perfect job on the heel, but It's definitely closer to the 1/4" difference that existed before.
And you can see where i've sanded down the handle a tiny bit, to expose some new wood and see what I was working with, but I stopped when I thought I would be changing the shape too much. And frankly, I don't find the original beech of the handle to be very attractive... Even If i polish it up like diamonds...
There are some seriously oiled lines on the handle on the edges where you grip it and I just can't sand down far enough to get through the lines of blackened oily wood, without basically turning it into a totally different handle. I posted a pic that I hope shows the gradation there.
Regarding the blade, I really like the patina and some of the age built up there so I don't want to polish it all down. I'd like to maybe thin the edge and create a new shinogi line -- I don't know how plausible that is on a knife like this.... but it would be pretty awesome? But can't help but wonder if I shouldn't just buy my dad a new knife and make this my personal project, instead of a gift. Hah. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... 08e592.jpg
Thu May 08, 2014 12:35 pm
Good job on the heel!! Looks much more useable now! What you can do is put in a short thinning bevel, polish it up and then use vinegar or something to get it to patina a little so it matches more with the rest of the blade. A 3/16"-1/4" tall thinning bevel is all you would really need is my guess.
For the handle, maybe try dying it to help the darker lines blend in? You could also try some cleaners, I used a citrus based aerosol oven cleaner (I think???) to clean some rifle wood stocks of old grease and dirt. This may make the handle more even coloring wise, just wash it off well and re oil the handle. Or rehandle it.
Fri Jul 04, 2014 8:41 am
I ordered some bubinga and some ironwood. I got both, and am looking at the grain to figure out what to do with them. I wish I could have found someone that sourced this wood locally but I bought online.
So after drilling out the rivets, I'm looking at using the old handle pieces as a template. It's taken me a few months since I posted this, but I am very stoked/scared. Sizing the rivets online was nasty, to make sure I had the right ones. Finding wood that would reflect my desire to keep the patina intact and honor it.. Woah.
So right now I figure I'll use the old handle as a template for the handle, and since the rivets are going to be softer than the wood, or the metal around the tang, I figure I'll cut and sand around that, and the rivets will come into line?
I'm going to be doing the handle in pine probably 3 or 4 times before I cut the ironwood or bubinga.
Just for what it's worth, I had a really hard time finding a source for rivets that didn't want to sell them to me in 100+ quantities, and finding a local lumber yard that had some good product I could work with, without buying 20 board feet. (exaggeration for point of effect. it was more like 25 rivet sets and 10 board feet) Man. I will definitely give you guys pics, but for right now I'm still treading very lightly and taking my time.
Last edited by Jeffuith
on Fri Jul 04, 2014 9:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
Fri Jul 04, 2014 8:55 am
Taz, I tried some of your suggestions but I really feel like from what I was seeing, the wood was just too soft, almost 'squishy'. .. i don't know how to say.. 'too used'? to really want to save it..
It took me some months to get to this point. I did take and try your suggestions for reviving the wood, and it did give it some new life, but I feel like the life was grey and old and musty. This was an OLD KNIFE? So the wood was just grey to the core and I can't sand that off.
So since this is my first time making a new handle, I figure why not. (Ironwood is freaking expensive ...)
So will give you guys some pics on the handle and naked tang soon I hope.
Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:17 am
1/8" diameter pins work nicely in place of rivets and I use JB kwik weld to attach the scales to the tang. You will need to counter sink the rivet holes. Something like a Corby bolt can work as well and look more like a rivet.
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