Wed Oct 24, 2012 2:39 am
So I am very satisfied with my edges, however I have a takeda 240 that I find wedges on say the horizontal cut dicing an onion. I have tried to thin a bit but don't want to over do it if my efforts are futile, is this a characteristic of takedas or am I missing a sharpening step to improve this? Thanks a lot for any input!
Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:25 am
Takedas tend to be pretty thin so wedging isn't typical. Tell us a bit more about how you are sharpening your edge here (stone and strop grit sequence, etc). Also by wedging, are you saying the onion is splitting or that the cutting effort is unacceptably high? Also can I assume these are push cutting strokes using the tip primarily or slicing type cuts.
Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:59 pm
Yeah, what Ken said!!
Wed Oct 24, 2012 2:51 pm
Thanks for the response guys I'd say it's a combination of both push cuts and slicing. I use an edge pro and run through the chosera set plus a 16 k shap glass and finish with balsa with boron. The grit and technique so far has been superb for e rest of my knives ( konosuke. Moritaka, tojiro) some reason tho the takeda just missing something. It juliens onions superbly and push cuts paper, shaves etc. however the slicing motion horizontally on the onion as in the strokes running up the onion feels like it takes more effort then should need, almost sticky. Sorry for the vagueness I don't know how else to describe it, perhaps a video is in need! Thanks for any input guys!
Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:20 pm
Does this happen to occur only on deep cuts when nothing is getting removed?
Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:00 am
Thu Oct 25, 2012 1:06 pm
It's either wedging or surface friction from Takeda's cladding material.
I've experienced both.
Takeda's sometimes came with almost an upside down teardrop shape to the edge...extremely thin edge, fat right at the start of the cladding, then getting thinner. For the record, I've seen a lot of Shigefusa knives like this as well. I had a conversation with Shigefusa (through the seller) and it was intentional. Odd design.
Perhaps thin the edge up past the shoulder and se what you get. You can test my theory with a dry stone.....make a few very low angle passes and see what parts of the knife are hitting the stones. If there are "hollows" that could be your problem.
Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:17 pm
Thanks alot for the response on such a vague question. So I deffinatly believe this shape is exactly what it is on my Takeda. is thinning the shoulder out the best solution? if its the cladding, should i scrub it off or is there another approach to it? thanks again for all the help!
Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:28 pm
Best approach would be to thin the knife, yes. It will remove some of the cladding, but that's the nature of the beast and should not affect the knife's performance adversely.
The cladding won't exactly scrub off anyway....it would take an abrasive of some kind....sandpaper, stone's, diamond plate, etc.
Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:12 am
I think Adam is precisely correct. If you are getting wedging, you need a thinner and sharper blade. If you have a caliper, check thickness along the 'problem area' to see if perhaps it is just a bit thicker in 'spots'. These are handmade blades so expect some variance. So thin the blade as necessary, but don't try to remove the cladding. The act of thinning will remove what cladding is necessary to achieve your thinning goals.
You can consider doing a zero grind edge on Takedas - the steel will take it. Then just put a microbevel on it if necessary if you find this too delicate of an edge.
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