Wed Aug 14, 2013 7:03 pm
I have a 120 and it loose's water pretty fast real fast I actually use mine at the sink and let just a couple drops of water constantly drop on the stone and it cuts steel so fast that any more than two passes with the knife for a basic reprofilling will take off alot of steel, usually just enough to make me next jump. Unless the knife is cpm154 or higher I won't use that stone unless its a tip redo it will remove to much metal. I have a 220 pink brick and I still haven't decided if I like it yet but I will tell you a secret I have been holding on to for a long time, mashiro makes a low cost 400/1000 stone only available in 6 in size but don't let that cool you I can soak it and than start working up a mud and within the second pass I have metal swarf and still stays pretty wet but I do have to add water here and there but I have done 12 knifes with it so far and it still looks as good as the day I got it. I love kens and marks stones and use them 99.99% of the time but this little sleeper is one of the best 400 stones I have ever used and I chose it over my 320 shapton pro most of the time just depends on how much time I have the shapton is a no soak and the mashiro is not. I love my 120 nubatama for major repair and its better than a dmt in my observation. Take it like a grain of salt but in most cases low grit stones require alot of water to work. Peace, jmbullman
Wed Aug 14, 2013 9:34 pm
Just wanted to add the 220 pink brick is a beast of a stone, cuts sooooo fast for a 220 and eats single bevel traditional knives. Good option over the 120 because it wears much slower without too much of a loss in cutting speed.
Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:31 am
I don't usually use a 220 since I'm not in a big hurry to get that first bevel and the 400 latte seems to do the trick for me. But I agree the 220 pink brick is a beast:http://www.chefknivestogo.com/impibr.html
Sun Aug 18, 2013 6:09 pm
Just an update: I finished my big project knife about an hour ago: The Benchmade 156. It's a beast of a knife and this one was beyond dull. In retrospect I think I should have started this project with diamonds. But this one was done 100% with Nubatama stones.
I'm getting more used to the feel and sound of this stone, so it doesn't seem so un-naturally gritty. That's just how this stone is. I was able to finish forming a burr on both sides and redo the tip so it was much, much sharper than before. Before I moved to another stone, I decided to see what the edge would be like if I finished here. So I stropped on the 150, pulled through cork a number of times, and generally tried to deburr as much as humanly possible with just the 150 and cork. The results were not pretty, but probably what you might expect. Only able to shave a hair or two on a pass. Not really a shaving edge at all. Clean sliced copy thickness paper. Tore phonebook paper, unless making fast slices at an angle, then it cut it.
I moved to the Ume 1000 next. This D2 is so much more abrasion resistant than I'm used to. The 1000 took at least 3x as long as I'm used to, but it formed a clear full length burr on both sides (with patience!). The resulting edge was pretty good after stropping, cork, more stropping (on the 1k stone), and quite a bit of checking to make sure I had no burr. In the end this edge shaves quite well, and mostly clean slices phonebook paper. But only with the grain. Oh and I checked the tip again, cutting paper with a swipe of the tip. It bit in like crazy. So I tested with my thumb. WOW. The tip got SO MUCH sharper than it had been from the 150. This is the nearly tack sharp tip I was aiming for!
Because this is a giant, super thick, military/survival knife, I decided to end it at the 1000 stone for a toothy edge. I think the owner will like that better than moving on to the Nubatama 5000.
I'm just happy to be done with this beast of a blade!
Sun Aug 25, 2013 4:45 pm
I just repaired another blade on the bamboo 150. This time a no name, mystery stainless kitchen knife that was flat on just about the entire length of the edge. No chips or anything; just DULL. Oh and the tip was blunted and rolled over.
This time the stone formed a lot more mud. A LOT more. I spent perhaps 45 minutes on this blade and in that time it fully coated the stone with mud several times. By contrast, with the D2 blade I did on this stone, I got maybe 1/3 of the mud. That's weird. Once formed, the mud really did seem to make the stone more effective. Part of it is that it became easier to move the blade on the stone. But it still ground off steel fairly quickly. I'd call this grinding speed closer to what I'd expect from the DMT XXC plate. No quite as fast, but much closer to what I was expecting.
With the mud, I like this stone better.
Getting the tip pointy again went very well with this stone. When I started the tip was flat. Not broken, just flat. In at the end of using the 150 it was pointy enough to catch my thumb like a thumb tack and easily bit into phonebook paper when swiping the tip across it.
Overall I'm pretty happy with this stone now.
Wed Aug 28, 2013 2:00 am
I love happy endings
What an excellent thread! I really appreciate the combined experience generated on this forum being graciously applied to the OP's concern. Kudos to all.
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