We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:33 am
I've been sharpening my Mac chefs' knife with my edgepro at 15 degrees, but seem unable to get as sharp an edge or as long lasting one as originally came with the knife. Any suggestions? Is 15 degrees the correct angle for this knife?
Same goes for the Mac utility knife. I must be doing something wrong!
Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:34 am
We should be able to help.
First explain your routine in detail.
Then what do you see when you look at the edge under magnification?
Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:19 pm
Welcome to the forum Gerry.
There's a lot of knowledge here.
As Mark said, explain your routine so we can get a better handle on what seems to be going wrong.
As far as the angle you're sharpening at (15°) , if you're using the angle cube to set the angle, taking the 3°-4° of the knife, you're putting on a 13°-13.5° edge on so you won't be getting a long lasting edge.
I'd suggest setting the angle at 18°-19° for a true 16°-17.5° and see how that works out for you.
Also use very light strokes to reduce the burr then as you finish lift up on the arm a bit and you'll reduce it even more.
Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:01 pm
Raise your arm on your E.P 1 or 2 degrees and finish with back sweeping strokes. I sure like to hand strop to get that extra keen edge.
Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:22 am
On my Yoshida Vg10 gyuto i did it on 18° by recomendation by Ben so you get 16°.
I use only 1000 EP stock stone whit whery light strokes
and polish tapes and that did it just fine.Nothing else to do.I finish that in 2 minutes.
If i did that on Japanese whater stone i think that I whoud change edge so whit EP did stay like it comes to me.
Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:41 pm
If you used the knives for a while before you first sharpened them, you may have not spent enough time on the lower grit stones to get a good burr.
Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:24 pm
i had this problem also, I though it was a burr issue but i wasn't sure,
I bought the 60X mini micro scope they sell on this sight..... and i was RIGHT, I was not getting the burr off the knife!
I also got the stop collar, what i do is set the angle with my FINSH stone, place the stop color on, and evey ston change i lift the arm set stone on stop color and set arm down on it, this keeps your angle from stone to stone 1!!
both of those only cost about $10 and will help a ton
I also suggest the magnet for the table.
make very light passes on the 1000, i do about 5 extremely light passes (pushing to edge) on each side to get the burr, you can also raise 2-3 degrees and then do the above to really knock the burr off
Mon Feb 24, 2014 3:08 pm
no need to use low grit stones on that kind knifes,
why to destroy knife?
1000 EP stock stone+polish tapes
sometimes it will be need to use only polish tapes to re-sharpen and rearly stone and that all only whit whery light strikes.
on 200$ knife to use low grit stone?I think not..
Tue Feb 25, 2014 12:34 am
Your most important stone is the 1st stone, and yes it should be lower than 1000 grit. You can polish a turd all day, but at the end of the day it's still a turd. You need to get a burr and you will spend a lot of time generating a burr with a 1000 grit stone if your knives a dull. The 1000 will work for awhile but you will need to re-profile the primary and secondary bevel eventually.
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