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Next knife

Sun May 12, 2013 12:01 pm

I bought the Richmond Artifex Honesuki 165mm for slicing onions etc., because I have a 150mm Moritaki petty in Agoumi super and it reacts instantly to the acids.
A moderator suggested that i was getting the wrong knife for the job, and was he right, but it's great to have the knife and learn about single bevels, etc. Slices flank steak and bones a chicken like nobody's business, but the single bevel and thick blade do not lend itself to slicing onions, etc.

Sooo, next knife.

I have Shuns but don't like them anymore.

I have an old 8" Henkel chef knife that I like a lot, but the blade is a bit thick, and nothing cuts like my Moritaki Agoumi super petty when it's sharp.

So, I want an 8" chef knife. I have seen a lot of stainless with different core metals around $150 (give or take within reason). Should i do that, or get the 210mm in Agoumi super and just keep wiping it.
How do the stainless sharpen and hold edges compared to Agoumi Super?

One other thing. Different topic. I oftentimes touch up my blades with a dry oil stone. Works fairly well. Not super well. I have a water stone 1000/6000. But I understand yo have to flatten after using it. Is there an easy way to do this?



Re: Next knife

Sun May 12, 2013 12:34 pm

Seems like you can get a few of the stainless alloys, AEB-L, Ginsan3, every bit as sharp as an Aogami super, but the word seems to be that nothing will hold its edge as long, besides maybe some of the powdered steels. If you don't want to deal a reactive blade, and you're just a home cook that isn't going to run through several hundred pounds of vegetables a week, one of these stainless steels will hold up just fine. Hiromoto G3 210 would probably work for you, as would an artifex. I have the artifex extra tall, I thinned it out, and it performs beautifully. I strop it on leather once a week or so and it has stayed tip top for well over a month. Thing still wows me using it.

For flattening, if you don't want to spend the money on the 140 grit plate, which I understand, you can get some 120 grit wet dry sand paper, and lay it flat on something you know is flat (counter tops do not always meet this qualification), wet the surface, wet the grit side of the paper, and soak the stone. Should be able to then grind the stone in a circular motion down to fairly flat. This is not ideal, but it seems to work ok.

Unfortunately for me, I am not an expert on this stuff, and this is advice from relatively short experience. I am sure the experts will be along shortly to give you actually valuable advice.

Re: Next knife

Mon May 13, 2013 7:17 am

Flattening a stone can be done several ways with varying degrees of success.

The most practical is to get a diamond plate like:


Rub against the stone to flatten it.

Other methods involve 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface, rubbing against flat concrete, etc. But, the diamond plate is your best choice if money allows.

You should flatten often. You might think you're wasting stone, but you're not.

If you like the Moritaka a lot, get the 210mm gyuto from them:


As you said, though, there are several other options.

There are some stainless steels like AEB-L that will take just as sharp of an edge as AS (actually sharper if you have the skill), and others that will hold an edge longer like M390.

There are stainless steels that are comparable in both departments to AS....like CPM154 (I'm going to get an argument with that statement....I said comparable :) ).

At the end of the day, though, get a knife that's interesting to you....don't buy based on specs alone. It never worked out for me.

Re: Next knife

Mon May 13, 2013 7:20 am

diamond plates are the easiest. i'm not going back to sand paper. lol.

Re: Next knife

Mon May 13, 2013 7:27 am

When you think about how much money sandpaper costs, you think it's a cheap option.....until you add up how many sheets you use and the diamond plate becomes very economical, very fast.

Re: Next knife

Mon May 13, 2013 9:10 am

There are stainless steels that are comparable in both departments to AS....like CPM154 (I'm going to get an argument with that statement....I said comparable :) ).

If comparable is the operative word, then +1 in spades! Knife enthusiasts put far too much emphasis on particular alloys, especially on whichever are the alloys d'juor.

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