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 Post subject: Re: Need help selecting sharpening tools
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 2401
On second thought after seeing the posts, the 320 is probably a better choice than the 500. It's perfectly fine going from the 320 to the 1K, and you'll cut a bevel faster and spend less time on the stone. This might be better for someone just starting out than spending a long time on one stone.


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 Post subject: Re: Need help selecting sharpening tools
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 4:51 pm 

Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:12 pm
Posts: 28
Location: Chicago
As someone who has never sharpened with stones before I wish to thank everyone for their time and expertise. I found this to be an informative forum and CKTG is an excellent site to buy from.

Some final questions before I embark on my first sharpening experience:

1 what is the best way to care for the stones in terms of drying and storage?
2 should you use the stone flattener every time you sharpen on each stone?
3 how do you know when the stone is "flat"? I've seen on vids where an x is drawn on the stone in pencil and when the x is rubbed off you're good to go.
4 after I apply the dia paste and strop does the strop need any special care or am I good to go the next time?
5 when would I use the 3 vs 1 micron paste and can I use both on the same strop?

Sorry for all the questions. New to this and want to execute properly.


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 Post subject: Re: Need help selecting sharpening tools
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:16 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:44 pm
Posts: 633
1. Splash and go stones shouldn't soak in much water at all, so drying it off with a paper towel or letting it air dry for a little bit until dry to the touch should be fine. For stones you have to soak, I like to dry/drain on paper towels for about a day or so.
2. Opinions vary, but a lot of people will tell you yes. With the Shaptons I don't think it would be as necessary as with a softer stone.
3. Drawing a hatch pattern on the stone with a pencil will show you where the low spots are. When there are no more marks, there are no more low spots and the stone is flat for all intents and purposes. Think of a large tic-tac-toe board pattern with lines running the entire length of the stone, both side to side and front to back. A carpenter's pencil might work better for the coarser grits so you don't blow through a standard pencil lead. lol
4. You should be good to go next time. The compound typically doesn't have to be applied every time. When the strop starts to lose some effectiveness, put a little more on. If you applied it every time you could actually overload the strop as the compound builds up.
5. Don't mix the compounds on a strop unless there is some specific goal you are trying to achieve. Essentially by mixing the grits you would still have a 3 micron strop. Work your way from lower grit (3 micron) to the higher grit (1 micron). Each will give the blade a different level of refinement like the stone progression. So if you are going to use two different grits of compound, you need two strops. Make sure to mark which is which! lol I have some older cow leather strops I made that have pretty much turned black, so the only way to know which one I want to use is by the markings.

Edit: Oh yeah! For storage I like keeping a Rubbermaid type plastic container for my stuff. Inexpensive, nearly indestructible, can double as a water reservoir if needed, and stacks well on a shelf when not in use. Keeps everything in one place, easily accessible, and out of the way. Just make sure to get a sturdy one if you go that route... lol


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 Post subject: Re: Need help selecting sharpening tools
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 2401
Scott - These are just my opinions. Take them for what you will. I am not a seasoned, expert free hand sharpener.

1) The main thing is to not store them in extreme environments. Don't let them freeze and don't sit them in the sun to dry. I put mine back in our basement when I'm finished sharpening and leave them on the workbench to dry. It could take a couple of days or more to fully dry, depending on the temperature. If you put them in a plastic tub of some sort w/a lid, make sure they're dry or you'll have condensation all over the inside of your container. Guess why I know that :-).

2) Use the flattening plate when you suspect the stone is getting dished. If you hold them together and see any gaps between the two (usually in the middle area) then the stone is not flat. I'm trying to learn to use the entire stone when sharpening, not just the middle area, to help keep dishing to a minimum. Higher grit stones will not dish as quickly as lower grit stones.

3) Yes, use a pencil to scribble and "x" or some wavy lines across the entire stone. Work the flattening plate on the stone, rotating the plate or stone 180 degrees every so often to help keep things even.

4) The paste should last quite a while before you need to re-apply. When you feel it's not working anymore as it should, then you could reapply some paste. You don't need much at all, even on a new balsa strop. Less is more. I use a credit card or a putty knife with a good clean edge to spread the compound. Let it dry for a day before using.

5) Don't use both at the same time. Which one depends on how you want your jump from your sharpening stones to the strop, grit-wise. Personally, I'd be tempted to start with the 3 micron. It's not much of a jump from your 4K and will give you a nice toothy edge with some bite. If you like the idea of going from your 4K to a 16K equivalent strop, then get the 1 micron paste. That's doable as well. How refined do you want your edge?

Good luck and enjoy your sharpening journey.


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 Post subject: Re: Need help selecting sharpening tools
PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 5:54 am 

Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:12 pm
Posts: 28
Location: Chicago
Great advice. Thanks to all.


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 Post subject: Re: Need help selecting sharpening tools
PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 2:02 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 6:15 pm
Posts: 32
If you get Shapton Glass Stones, lap them each time you finish using them. This will keep them flat and clean. When you are finished, wash them off and lay them on their side, on a towel at an angle. They will dry in 10-15 minutes. If you get a paddle type board strop, mark the handle so you will know which side holds each compound. Eventually you will lose a mark on the leather. That is how I do it.


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