Sun Jun 24, 2012 7:13 am
My first post !
I have been working with my " konosuke kiritsuke style yanagi" on the line slicing meats and an occasional onion or two and I have tiny chips occurring that are just barely visible I'm wondering if I'm sharpening wrong or what to do to prevent this . I have been sharpening mine and others knives at the restaurant for four years but rarely the single bevel variety. Should I use micro bevels ?
Thanks for any tips
- Mark Campbell
Sun Jun 24, 2012 8:50 am
Wrong knife for the task. The edge is thin and hard on a yanagi and cutting a onion would be damaging as would slicing meat while running into the cutting surface repeatedly. A Gyuto would be a better choice of tool.
Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:00 pm
Hi Mark, welcome to the forum!
The yanagi is a really specific knife for slicing. You can put a micro bevel on the edge to widen the edge just a bit and that should help you keep from micro chipping and allow you to use it for other tasks like you've been doing.
BTW I love the looks of that knife. How do you like it?
Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:42 pm
Thanks Mark I'll try that I didn't want to mess with the geometry . Besides my yanagi inexperience the knife is a joy perfectly balanced just above the handle beautiful patina and like you mentioned I think it looks cool. It is heavier than I thought it would be but that's kinda nice for when I'm slicing .
Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:47 pm
So I figure i'll post my question here as well... I am having the same issue but using my Hiromoto Gyuto 240mm, I use it for basically everything... I wonder if maybe its when i chop that it does it? I sharpen it for now with Norton 500/1k and King 800/6k.... Any help would we much appreciated.
Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:50 pm
Jisher <> If you're sharpening to a super acute angle on a thin secondary edge... its gonna happen man. You cut more then flesh with a Gyuto. You're gonna encounter something thats too hard for your edge. No biggy, back to the stones...
Fri Jul 20, 2012 10:11 pm
About the Hiromoto and a lot of others: some initial chipping is quite common, it will disappear after a few sharpening sessions if enough steel vill have been removed. There is a lot of discussion about very local overheating or buffering as a cause. Anyway, no reason to change a reasonable geometry, but rather a reason to remove enough steel. Stick with the existing geometry, ease shoulders if any and thin a little behind the edge.
Even more specific to the Hiromoto: in my own, limited experience, and according to reports of others, the tungsten carbides need a coarser stone (e.g.J400) to set a bevel. Don't try to convex during the progression.
Sat Jul 21, 2012 4:19 am
1. Your technique with your knives is too abusive and you are chipping the knives.
2. Your angles are too acute and will need to be backed off or microbeveled.
3. Your edges are just giant wire edges and look super chippy because they flake easy.
Not seeing your knives or how you use them, I can't say which is which. But those are the options.
BTW, if I sharpen my Yanagiba the way I like it for sashimi and then use it on brisket, it chips like I've run it across granite. It's just not made for it.
Sat Jul 21, 2012 6:14 am
A true single bevel Kiritsuke is a very specific knife designed for specific tasks, overlapping the functionality of a deba and a yanagi and an usuba. It is not a knife for cutting onions and meats. The double beveled variety (really a gyuto with a odd tip) or gyuto would be more suitable.
So you can use the knife for its intended task and sharpen appropriately. OR if you want to adopt it (NOT my first choice) you will need a less acute angle using either a hamaguri grind or convex grind. Either grind will markedly affect the initial purpose the knife is designed to be used to perform. It is a bit like modifying a formula one car for getting groceries at the store.
On the Hiromoto, consider a less acute angle. Start with a microbevel at a less acute angle and go less and less acute until you no longer have chipping. And yes, your first edges are often more chippy as the edge may be overhardened and metal below the initial edge ground off may be more 'ideally hardened'.
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